To check calibration, I'd compare it to a beam-type wrench. Clamp the
clicker in some soft jaws and use two sockets with an all-thread
joining nut connecting them together. Set the clicker and pull with
the beam until it clicks. Do that for several settings and you should
have a pretty good idea of how accurate your wrench is. (I'd also
recommend plotting actual [beam scale] reading against set point to
see if there is some significant nonlinearity or offset present, but
that's just me.
Donald.
> Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 22:20:13 -0400
> From: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>
>
> Hi Randall,
>
> I agree. Sometimes HF is good stuff and sometimes not.
>
> My last engine rebuild was in 1971, so I haven't used a torque wrench in
> a long time. The one I used then was a bending beam with pointer and
> scale kind of thing.
>
> I had assumed I should buy a pricey up-scale instrument kind of thing
> until I saw the torque specifications in my TR250 Bentley. The ranges
> are very broad: 26-34 is a typical number. My thinking is a difference
> of 8 in this example so, 30 is in the middle +/- 4. 4/30 is about +/-
> 13%. I would set the torque wrench for 30 in this case.
>
> These HF torque wrenches claim to be +/- 4% so I figured they were OK --
> three times more accurate than I needed (in the typical case).
>
> I understand your reply to doubt whether these HF wrenches are what they
> claim to be -- accurate to +/- 4 %.
>
> You also seem to not like the clicker style. I thought it would be good
> because using it would not require me to be read/view the scale.
>
> What would you suggest that would get me a typical +/- 13% or so.
>
> Also, how do I recalibrate a clicker type?
>
> Thanks for the response,
>
> Don Malling
[snip]
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