I tried to do the same thing, except mine was bolted on- ended up snapping
off several bolts flush with the block, one broke off flush with the head-
suggest you try double nutting the studs to remove them one by one, or
perhaps welding a nut to the top of the stud to remove it- good luck! we
have a flathead rebuilder here in San Jose if you need a new block, etc-
sounds like a flathead ford?
best regards,
-bob
http://www.vmoa.org
http://www.vmoa.org/bob
On Wed, 6 Jan 1999, Jack W Drews wrote:
>
> I am working on the restoration of a 1930's vintage classic car. I am
> trying to remove the quite large aluminum heads, each secured to the
> block with 21 studs, 1/2" diameter. As you can imagine, electrolysis has
> had sixty years to do its thing with the studs and the aluminum head
> casting. The pistons are frozen in the bores so I can't use the rope
> tricks or compression tricks.
>
> After three days of attacking it with slender wedges of all
> descriptions, vibratory tools applied to the studs, and so-called
> "penetrating" oils which really don't, I humbly ask the list's
> collective wisdom: What are the current methods for separating
> aluminum/steel corroded joints?
> --
> uncle jack
> Happiness is a warm garage....
>
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