Jack,
Some time ago we had a similar problem with an inline 6, got lucky with 3
cylinders that could be pressurized through the spark plug holes. We made up
a manifold and got some good valves, used a hydraulic pump and sloooowly and
alternately pressurized the cylinders. Took about 2 hours, but got it loose.
Might be a good idea to use a penetrating oil under a little pressure for a
day or so first.
Hope you have good luck.
Regards,
Michael Lowe
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack W Drews <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 12:12 AM
Subject: separating aluminum and steel parts
>
>I am working on the restoration of a 1930's vintage classic car. I am
>trying to remove the quite large aluminum heads, each secured to the
>block with 21 studs, 1/2" diameter. As you can imagine, electrolysis has
>had sixty years to do its thing with the studs and the aluminum head
>casting. The pistons are frozen in the bores so I can't use the rope
>tricks or compression tricks.
>
>After three days of attacking it with slender wedges of all
>descriptions, vibratory tools applied to the studs, and so-called
>"penetrating" oils which really don't, I humbly ask the list's
>collective wisdom: What are the current methods for separating
>aluminum/steel corroded joints?
>--
>uncle jack
>Happiness is a warm garage....
>
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