My thinking is that although the pressurizing techniques
suggested may get the head "broke loose", you will still have a
real challenge getting the head to slide on the 21 studs. I
heard of a technique for freeing brake bleeder screws that might
be applicable here in some form. That was to apply 12v across
the bleeder to the wheel cylinder and the resistance of the
corroded joint would heat that area and give you a shot at
freeing it.
Just a thought.
Bruce
-----Original Message-----
From: Nils O. Ny <n.ny@intest.com>
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: separating aluminum and steel parts
>
>At 06:28 PM 1/6/1999 -0500, Jack W Drews wrote:
>>
>>I am working on the restoration of a 1930's vintage classic
car. I am
>>trying to remove the quite large aluminum heads, each secured
to the
>>block with 21 studs, 1/2" diameter. As you can imagine,
electrolysis has
>>had sixty years to do its thing with the studs and the aluminum
head
>>casting. The pistons are frozen in the bores so I can't use the
rope
>>tricks or compression tricks.
>>
>>After three days of attacking it with slender wedges of all
>>descriptions, vibratory tools applied to the studs, and
so-called
>>"penetrating" oils which really don't, I humbly ask the list's
>>collective wisdom: What are the current methods for separating
>>aluminum/steel corroded joints?
>>--
>>uncle jack
>>Happiness is a warm garage....
>>
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