There's a return spring to the frame on most trucks. Light but long, clips
on a hanger riveted to frame farther ahead. One end for the clutch spring,
one for the brake pedal. OR, your front corner cab mount is bad, truck has
settled and the holes where pedals go out floor are rubbing on pedal shafts.
Do they squeak, scrape when using either? Are the holes elongated from wear
of shafts rubbing on them? Quite common. You need to replace the lower cab
mount channel to fix that and stiffen up the floor if it is weak there. Or
replace floor panel too.
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
glperry@fwi.com
Big AD trucks, COE
MM tractors and 1 Oliver!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Hanberg" <Steve@OldSub.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 1:02 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] brakes
> Over the past six months I've completely replaced my entire brake system.
I
> did the rear cylinders several months ago, and the master cylinder and all
> the lines when I put disk brakes on the front some weeks ago.
>
> I did not have to power bleed mine. I just filled the master with fluid
and
> started bleeding just like normal. That part of the job was an easy
> success. Instead of a power bleeder I use a teenager to pump the pedal.
>
> But I'm still fighting with the pedel. It now seems to bind near the top
of
> the stroke and does not always return all the way to the top. I've
adjusted
> the free play so the brakes don't drag, but the brake lights stay on...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Nordwall" <jimnordwall@yahoo.com>
> To: "29871" <29871@msn.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 8:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] brakes
>
>
> > Spend $40 and get a vacuum pump made to bleed brakes
> > with. Pour fluid into the master cylinder, and using
> > the vacuum pump, bleed the wheel cylinder furthest
> > away. Keep filling the master cylinder, if it goes
> > dry, you will get more air in the brake lines. After
> > you get fluid with no air bubbles, move to the next
> > furthest away wheel cylinder and repeat the process.
> > Same procedure for the remaining two cylinders. I
> > generally throw away the frist couple of ounces of
> > brake fluid from each wheel and the recycle the rest.
> > If you installed a latemodel dual
> > mastercylinder(recommended even for a restoration),
> > this method will most likely work. Some of the GM
> > master cylinders only work well when the have been
> > power bleed. I have never had to power bleed any, but
> > have been told that others have.
> >
> > I'm sure you know this, adjust the brake shoes so that
> > they just contact the drums, before you start.
> >
> > Jim Nordwall
> > 1950 3100
> >
> >
> >
> > --- 29871 <29871@msn.com> wrote:
> > > I have a '55 second series with a brand brake
> > > system, complete from wheel
> > > cylinders to pedal.
> > > The system is completely dry of fluid and I want to
> > > know the best way to fill
> > > the system with new brake fluid.
> > > Also I have new lines and new master cylinder. Like
> > > I said, this is a
> > > completely dry system.
> > > Thanks for any info you can give me.
> > > Kevin
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > > between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
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> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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