Even using a vacuum pump, I've never been able to get a firm pedal without
first bench bleeding the master cylinder. This CAN be done with the master
already in place, but not quite as easy. Only way I know of to do this
properly, is to remove the exit lines, and either cap the outlet holes, or
put a short section of tubing that routes the fluid back into the master.
Start working the input shaft (either by the pedal, or if out of the car, by
pushing it gently, maybe in an inch or so)....in either case, avoid pushing
the rod all the way to the bottom as that might damage some of the internal
seals within the master). You want to keep doing this until you see ZERO
bubbles coming up inside the fluid inside the master....and then continue
some more until you are absolutely sure you have no air left in the master's
piston area.
Hope this helps.
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Nordwall" <jimnordwall@yahoo.com>
To: "29871" <29871@msn.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2002 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] brakes
> Spend $40 and get a vacuum pump made to bleed brakes
> with. Pour fluid into the master cylinder, and using
> the vacuum pump, bleed the wheel cylinder furthest
> away. Keep filling the master cylinder, if it goes
> dry, you will get more air in the brake lines. After
> you get fluid with no air bubbles, move to the next
> furthest away wheel cylinder and repeat the process.
> Same procedure for the remaining two cylinders. I
> generally throw away the frist couple of ounces of
> brake fluid from each wheel and the recycle the rest.
> If you installed a latemodel dual
> mastercylinder(recommended even for a restoration),
> this method will most likely work. Some of the GM
> master cylinders only work well when the have been
> power bleed. I have never had to power bleed any, but
> have been told that others have.
>
> I'm sure you know this, adjust the brake shoes so that
> they just contact the drums, before you start.
>
> Jim Nordwall
> 1950 3100
>
>
>
> --- 29871 <29871@msn.com> wrote:
> > I have a '55 second series with a brand brake
> > system, complete from wheel
> > cylinders to pedal.
> > The system is completely dry of fluid and I want to
> > know the best way to fill
> > the system with new brake fluid.
> > Also I have new lines and new master cylinder. Like
> > I said, this is a
> > completely dry system.
> > Thanks for any info you can give me.
> > Kevin
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > between 1941 and 1959
>
>
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oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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