Hello Y'All
Take it from an old fart with lung problems that you best wear a
respirator when you are sandblasting.
Even if you cant see the dust, It IS in the air and can damage your lungs.
The "Peening" action case hardens the metal. Straighten all your metal BEFORE
you
sandblast.
I would also be a good idea to study in depth the different types of material
you
are using such as
sand, metal or nut shells (?). Each abrasive has different results.
And finally...Dont sandblast greasy spots....It will permeate into the metal.
One other note while I have your atttention.
Someone suggested putting a "washer" of some kind under the bolts to save the
paint
from getting scratched.
After reading this Very Good suggestion I remembered that Gramps left me some
leather working tools.
These tools are made by C.S. Osborne & Co. out of New Jersey. Check for them at
a
local Leather working shop.
I had two sizes. One is 1/4 inch and another 3/4 inch. These things are
relics of
days gone bye but work great.
I used the lids off coffee cans (the plastic part) and punch first the 1/4 inch
hole, then the 3/4 inch hole. This gave me
washer which will fit under the metal washer, is almost clear and not visible.
I
have only used them under a metal washer
and will try a lubricant, IF necessary when used under a bolt which is being
tightened. I dont know what a lock
washer will do to them.
Arch
Thomas Allen wrote:
> Ya want to be careful with a really effective sand blaster. the sand
> striking the metal can embrittle the metal causing future cracks. Also some
> have warned about the heat caused by blasting warping sheat metal. My only
> misfortune with a blaster is to blast the toe of my boot, which ruined the
> finish but fortunately not my toe.
>
> -Tom Allen
> 51 3800
>
> At 10:17 PM 5/28/02 -0700, mshuck wrote:
> >I have been sand blasting a 1952 5 window, with a sand blaster from sears
>and
> >boy it sucks paid around 79.00 for it.
> >used it for 2.5 months. I just found one from harbor freight ( pressure sand
> >blaster for 68 on sale)It was a lot better sand blaster
> >Came w/ hood, pressure release valve, water trap and was A LOT, LOT faster.
>10
> >times faster. And this thing was cheaper than the
> >one from sears so save your money get the one from harbor freight its worth
> >the money . Sear was junk the one from HF was much better. I did a whole rear
> >fender in about 3 to for 4 min. all the way to the paint!!
> >
> >
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> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> Tom Allen
> Seattle, WA
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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