Go to Auto Zone or somewhere and get the shop book for your series of tru=
ck
for around $15 and it will have a procedure in it for flushing the rads. =
I
wouldn't mess with sensors at all. Short wrong wire, it blows, and expens=
ive
to replace! ALSO, the radio will need a code punched in to allow the
battery to disconnect and work again when re-connected. W/out code, no ra=
dio
Anti-theft feature. Anything after 93 has that feature and there are
warnings of it all-over the manual.=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: josiah.bartlett@exgate.tek.com=0D
Date: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 05:57:32 PM=0D
To: SchornT@ci.fort-worth.tx.us; Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com; jonesal@u
washington.edu; oletrucks@autox.team.net=0D
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed=0D
=0D
Unfortunately, disconnecting the battery is not enough to keep the airbag=
=0D
from firing. All airbags have a battery or capacitor backup that you have=
to=0D
discharge somehow. On some vehicles you do it by holding the brake pedal=0D
down for a few minutes, and on others there is a hidden connector you hav=
e=0D
to short out. You need to find the correct procedure for your vehicle to=0D
keep it from going off. Generally, though, bumping one sensor won't set o=
ff=0D
the airbag, it needs input from two or more.=0D
Regards,=0D
Josiah Bartlett=0D
=0D
-----Original Message-----=0D
From: Schorn, Tim [mailto:SchornT@ci.fort-worth.tx.us]=0D
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 6:27 AM=0D
To: 'Hanlon, Bill'; Allen Jones; oletrucks=0D
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed=0D
=0D
=0D
Bill, =0D
Your concern about the air-bag sensors is most likely well-founded!! That=
=0D
is why the first step in any instruction for performing work like this is=
"=0D
disconnect ground cable from battery"!!!!!! Safety first!! Good luck with=
=0D
your project!!=0D
=0D
Tim in Ft Worth=0D
=0D
-----Original Message-----=0D
From: Hanlon, Bill [mailto:Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com]=0D
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 4:56 PM=0D
To: Allen Jones; oletrucks=0D
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed=0D
=0D
That's what is great about this group! =0D
Always a practical answer. =0D
Thanks Allen.=0D
=0D
=0D
Now all I need is a few opinions as to whether=0D
or not it is worth doing.=0D
=0D
-----Original Message-----=0D
From: Allen Jones [mailto:jonesal@u.washington.edu]=0D
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 3:42 PM=0D
To: oletrucks=0D
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Special tool needed=0D
=0D
=0D
Military method: (the technical manual actually authorizes this) take an=0D
appropriately sized cotter pin and bend it into a tee with the top part o=
f=0D
the tee at 45 degrees to the leg, and bend curved to fit the crank shaft.=
=0D
Insert the cotter pin into the oil hole with the leg pointed in the=0D
direction of loading, rotate the crank shaft, and bearing is removed. Eas=
y=0D
parcheesi, no special tool req'd. <insert qualifications of not scratchin=
g=0D
the crank, rotating the crank shaft in the right direction, etc. etc. her=
e>=0D
Note this method only works on tanged inserts, not pinned inserts.=0D
=0D
If this doesn't make sense, I can scan the page out of the techman and po=
st=0D
it on my web page.=0D
=0D
Allen in Seattle=0D
'50 3100=0D
'55 M38A1=0D
http://students.washington.edu/jonesal/other.html=0D
=0D
----- Original Message -----=0D
From: "Peters, Jon C" <jpeters@sikorsky.com>=0D
To: "'Hanlon, Bill'" <Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com>; "oletrucks"=0D
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>=0D
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 11:54 AM=0D
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed=0D
=0D
=0D
> I've heard of that tool, but I haven't seen them in use.=0D
> Sorry=0D
> As a side what manufacturer made your v8 Pontiac or Buick?=0D
>=0D
> -----Original Message-----=0D
> From: Hanlon, Bill [mailto:Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com]=0D
> Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 2:22 PM=0D
> To: oletrucks=0D
> Subject: [oletrucks] Special tool needed=0D
>=0D
> I need to replace the oil pan gaskets on my 57=0D
> GMC V8 to fix a leak. The engine has about=0D
> 80,000 miles on it's only rebuild. It has=0D
> good compression on all cylinders. Oil pressure=0D
> is OK, but drops to around 15-16 PSI at an idle=0D
> (450 RPM) after 10 miles at 70 MPH @ 90 degree=0D
> air temp. At the same idle after normal in-town=0D
> driving the oil pressure is around 20 PSI.=0D
> When it was rebuilt the crank was measured and=0D
> found to be within spec, so it was polished=0D
> and re-installed with STD/STD bearings.=0D
>=0D
> Back when our trucks were fairly new there was a=0D
> tool that one could use to "roll out" and "roll in"=0D
> new main bearings without actually removing the=0D
> crankshaft. The tool had a round stud on it that=0D
> fit into the oil hole on the crank journal and a=0D
> head that was thinner than the bearing shell=0D
> thickness. You remove the main bearing cap,=0D
> stick the tool into the oil hole and turn the crank=0D
> in the right direction to remove the bearing shell.=0D
> Install the new shell in the opposite direction,=0D
> put the other half into the main cap, retorque and=0D
> move on to the next main.=0D
>=0D
> If I could find one of these I would consider=0D
> installing a new set of standard size main=0D
> and rod bearings and a new oil pump while=0D
> I have the pan off.=0D
>=0D
> Two questions:=0D
> 1. Anyone know where I can find one of these=0D
> gizmos?=0D
> 2. Any reason not to do this? I know that=0D
> the right way is to remove the crank,=0D
> have it magnefluxed, checked for taper,=0D
> checked for out of round, ground if=0D
> necessary, etc. etc. etc. I am looking=0D
> at this as low-cost preventative maintenance=0D
>=0D
> and am not planning to tear the engine=0D
> down until it needs it.=0D
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between=0D
> 1941 and 1959=0D
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959=
=0D
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959=0D
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959=0D
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959=0D
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959=0D
=0D
=2E
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[demime 0.97c removed an attachment of type Image/jpeg]
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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