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Re: [oletrucks] Special tool needed

To: "Hanlon, Bill" <Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com>,
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Special tool needed
From: "Pat Cossey" <ccossey@seark.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:20:31 -0500
Bill I wouldn`t change the mains!!  repace the oil pump and let it run!  As
a side note I had a problem that was similiar turned out to be the bypass on
the filter mount.  Don`t ask me how that effected oil pressure just happened
to be what cured my low pressure at Idle!
Pat   67 SS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hanlon, Bill" <Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com>
To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 1:22 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Special tool needed


> I need to replace the oil pan gaskets on my 57
> GMC V8 to fix a leak.  The engine has about
> 80,000 miles on it's only rebuild.  It has
> good compression on all cylinders.  Oil pressure
> is OK, but drops to around 15-16 PSI at an idle
> (450 RPM) after 10 miles at 70 MPH @ 90 degree
> air temp.  At the same idle after normal in-town
> driving the oil pressure is around 20 PSI.
> When it was rebuilt the crank was measured and
> found to be within spec, so it was polished
> and re-installed with STD/STD bearings.
>
> Back when our trucks were fairly new there was a
> tool that one could use to "roll out" and "roll in"
> new main bearings without actually removing the
> crankshaft.  The tool had a round stud on it that
> fit into the oil hole on the crank journal and a
> head that was thinner than the bearing shell
> thickness.  You remove the main bearing cap,
> stick the tool into the oil hole and turn the crank
> in the right direction to remove the bearing shell.
> Install the new shell in the opposite direction,
> put the other half into the main cap, retorque and
> move on to the next main.
>
> If I could find one of these I would consider
> installing a new set of standard size main
> and rod bearings and a new oil pump while
> I have the pan off.
>
> Two questions:
> 1. Anyone know where I can find one of these
> gizmos?
> 2. Any reason not to do this?  I know that
> the right way is to remove the crank,
> have it magnefluxed, checked for taper,
> checked for out of round, ground if
> necessary, etc. etc. etc.  I am looking
> at this as low-cost preventative maintenance
> and am not planning to tear the engine
> down until it needs it.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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