My V8 is a Pontiac 347. I believe that all US 55.2-59 GMC V8s were either
Pontiac 288/316/336/347 (smaller trucks) or Oldsmobile 324/370 (larger trucks).
The Canadian 55.2-59 GMC V8s were either Chevrolet 265/283 (smaller trucks) or
Buick 322 (larger trucks). At least that is what the US and Canadian Master
Parts Books show.
-----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Jon C [mailto:jpeters@sikorsky.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 1:54 PM
To: Hanlon, Bill; oletrucks
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Special tool needed
I've heard of that tool, but I haven't seen them in use.
Sorry
As a side what manufacturer made your v8 Pontiac or Buick?
-----Original Message-----
From: Hanlon, Bill [mailto:Bill.Hanlon@COMPAQ.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 2:22 PM
To: oletrucks
Subject: [oletrucks] Special tool needed
I need to replace the oil pan gaskets on my 57
GMC V8 to fix a leak. The engine has about
80,000 miles on it's only rebuild. It has
good compression on all cylinders. Oil pressure
is OK, but drops to around 15-16 PSI at an idle
(450 RPM) after 10 miles at 70 MPH @ 90 degree
air temp. At the same idle after normal in-town
driving the oil pressure is around 20 PSI.
When it was rebuilt the crank was measured and
found to be within spec, so it was polished
and re-installed with STD/STD bearings.
Back when our trucks were fairly new there was a
tool that one could use to "roll out" and "roll in"
new main bearings without actually removing the
crankshaft. The tool had a round stud on it that
fit into the oil hole on the crank journal and a
head that was thinner than the bearing shell
thickness. You remove the main bearing cap,
stick the tool into the oil hole and turn the crank
in the right direction to remove the bearing shell.
Install the new shell in the opposite direction,
put the other half into the main cap, retorque and
move on to the next main.
If I could find one of these I would consider
installing a new set of standard size main
and rod bearings and a new oil pump while
I have the pan off.
Two questions:
1. Anyone know where I can find one of these
gizmos?
2. Any reason not to do this? I know that
the right way is to remove the crank,
have it magnefluxed, checked for taper,
checked for out of round, ground if
necessary, etc. etc. etc. I am looking
at this as low-cost preventative maintenance
and am not planning to tear the engine
down until it needs it.
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between
1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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