While on the subject of front motor mounts: On my open driveshaft one-ton,
I was able to significantly reduce driveshaft vibration by shimming the
front motor mount. this matches the angles of the front and center
u-joints. They must match for minimum vibration. This is also true of
one-piece drive shafts. I undid the front motor mount bolts and jacked up
the motor a little. Then with the rear wheel off the ground , I ran the
motor in high gear around the speed where the vibration had been most
annoying. By letting the motor down a little at a time and running the
motor in gear I was able to find the level where the vibration was least.
I put some horseshoe shaped body shims under the mount and tightened it
down. Now I have virtually no vibration at highway speeds.
At 12:33 PM 3/22/02 -0700, Dustin Cross wrote:
>I used a 235 out of a '58 car in my '53 pickup I was able to drill one
>hole in the lip but I think (its been 10 years or so...) that the lip was
>shaped so I couldnt get a second bolt in
>
>Dustin
>
>
>
>
>As I recall, the 216 had a single middle front motor mount that bolts to the
>bottom lip of the timing cover base plate (the cover base plate, bolts to
>the block...it is just a flat plate that holds the front timing cover, and
>has a lip on the bottom)...the bolts go thru the cover plate, thru the motor
>mount, thru the front crossmember, and then the nut and washer.
>
>The bottom lip of the 235 cover plate doesn't have any holes, as apparently
>the TF 235's used two side mounted engine mounts near the front of the block
>(rather than the single center mount the 216 used), so it didn't need the
>holes in the cover plate like the 216 has. So, I think I will either need a
>216 cover plate (assuming it will swap to the 235), or drill the missing
>holes into the 235's lower lip on the cover plate. The holes in the 216
>were squared to accept carriage bolts I think, but I can either file them
>square, or not use carriage bolts.
>
>Rob
>
>My Zen Moment for the Day: Duct tape is like the "Force." It has a light
>side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Allen Jones" <jonesal@u.washington.edu>
>To: "_Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, March 22, 2002 9:34 AM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] AD front motor mount question
>
>
> > Not sure that's correct -- might be for a TF 235. I used the stock plate
> > that was in my 50 to bolt in the newer 235/261 -- no mods needed.
> >
> > Allen in Seattle
> > '50 3100
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rob" <a70ragtop@hotmail.com>
> > To: "_Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, March 22, 2002 8:33 AM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] AD front motor mount question
> >
> >
> > > When putting a later model Task Force 235 into an Advance Design truck,
>I
> > know
> > > you need to modify the front cover plate to allow the use of the front
> > motor
> > > mount that the AD's used which involves drilling a couple of holes in
>the
> > > lower lip...correct? (TF's used the side mounts at the front I
>believe)?
> > If
> > > so, is there a pattern or template or measurements I can use to figure
>out
> > > where to put the holes so that after the engine is built, it will be
>ready
> > to
> > > drop in an have everything align properly? Can anyone help me out?
> > >
> > > Rob
> > >
> > > My Zen Moment for the Day: Duct tape is like the "Force." It has a
>light
> > > side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
Tom Allen
Seattle, WA
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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