Yeah, I agree. What I'll be doing, is putting everything back together,
minus the thermostat initially. I will fill with just water, then remove
the upper hose at the radiator and see if the pump is pumping out water (to
prove the pump is doing its job). I'll have the hose in the rad. fill
opening to replace the water. If water flows well through the system, then
I'll put the upper hose back into place, then put on the zero psi cap and
see what happens. If everything runs ok, and temp is ok, then I'll
substitute the 7psi cap and see what effect this has. After all this, I'll
put the thermostat back in place and see what happens with both caps. Of
course, before I do any of this, I'll have pulled all the plugs to see if I
can see any evidence of a leak into the cylinders, plus check and correct
any timing problems.
Rob
My Zen Moment for the Day: Sex is like air. It's not important, unless you
aren't getting any.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob KNOTTS" <raknotts@qwest.net>
To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 12:36 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] Overheating problem
> With a pressure cap and a 50/50 antifreeze mix, boiling will be
substantially
> above 212. But something is still wrong. I remember there being different
> openings for thermostats, but I think the most common were 180 and 195
> degrees, which still should keep your engine below 212. Bob K in PHX,AZ
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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