FIrst off, thanks to all who have replied. Many good ideas, but at this
point, I'm not sure what the deal is the the dist. I SWEAR when I looked
the other day, the dist. didn't move a bit when I revved the engine...now it
does as I thought it should...I rev the engine, the dist rotates. Either I
have something binding somewhere, or a leak that is sporadic...more
detecting work I guess.
Regarding the Overheating...I have pulled the water pump, and the impeller
is fine as is the pump itself. Before pulling the pump, I ran water thru
the heater hoses...flowed just fine in both directions. Ran water into the
lower hose...water came out the upper hose just fine (had to pull the
thermostat first). Then, I ran water into upper hose, water came out the
lower hose just fine. Lower and upper hose are both in good shape...no weak
spots. I am taking both radiators today to have them checked for
blockage/leaks, and will have one of them at least backflushed per a
suggestion by Gary Perry. If they come back ok, I guess the only thing
remaining would be a possible head issue, or maybe timing. More work to do,
but I'm not pulling the head yet...that will be last step...some tests I can
do to try to determine if head or head gasket problems exist, so I'll run
those first.
Just a thought...could my having gone from a zero pressure cap, to a 7psi
cap, have simply caused the running temperature to go higher...ie, before
the cap swap, the engine would run at about 185...now, it seems to want to
run right at the pegged out point (ie. 212). I finally got the nerve to let
it run for awhile even though the temp needle acted like it was gonna go
thru the roof and peg out, but by letting it go for a bit, it seemed to be
willing to hover right at the 212 mark. Initially, I would shut off the
engine as soon as it got close to that point, thinking I was getting close
to doing engine damage, but after letting it run for awhile and it seemed
to hover there, it made me wonder what affect the cap change might have had.
I know the increased pressure will raise the boiling point, but will it also
cause an engine to want to run hotter. If so, then I may be worrying about
nothing, and there might have been no reason to have done all this work...I
just might need to find a zero pressure cap as I had originally? What do
you think about the role of the rad cap. Could this have been the only
reason for the running temperature increase?
Rob
My Zen Moment for the Day: Sex is like air. It's not important, unless you
aren't getting any.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MKlepp4335@cs.com>
To: <rjjmsj@earthlink.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] overheating problem
> In a message dated 1/17/02 10:40:39 AM Central Standard Time,
> rjjmsj@earthlink.net writes:
>
> << I revved the engine, but did not see the dist. rotate at all (vacuum
> advance). Should it not rotate such that I would see this externally (or
> does all the movement occur
> internally without the outside rotating)? >>
>
> If still all stock, the entire distributor should rotate when the throttle
is
> advanced. Maybe you advance unit is faulty.
>
> Mike Klepp
> '48 3100
> Wichita Falls, TX
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|