I would guess that your headlight switch is on. The Lt. Blue feeds power
from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch, and from there you feed all
four lamps. The lamps will make almost a dead short to an ammeter with
very low resistance, but won't pass much current with the full 12 volts.
An ohm meter and a continuity tester probably work on only a volt or two
and read just a few miliamps as no resistance.
If you have the orignial headlight switch and the knob isn't put in yet,
odds are that the switch is on.
Try this before you pull your hair out.
Also, I believe you said you had a '58, that would be with dual headlights?
The 57 and earlier have single headlights. Is the dimmer switch different
between the two? With the dual light system, one filament in the low beam
and one filament in the high beam are on when the highs are on. When the
lows are on, only one filament in the low beam is on. The four filaments
on with the highs on (two on each side) may be just enough to hit the
threshold on the continuity tester.
Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
Mt. Iron, MN
>Jose
>Believe me I was tempted to do just that, In the old days before computers
>in cars, the old Cadillac's and Lincoln's had electric windows and would
>start blowing fuss's so to find a short we would wrap gum wrapper around
>fuss and when we would see smoke we would disconnect battery and fix the bad
>wire's.
>something strange is going on with the old TF and I thought I've checked
>every thing, I only have the main harness in, no coil, have altenartor but
>not connected'
>seams to be in the lighting circuit, I can disconnect the LT Blue wire on
>the light switch and what appears to be a short goes away (that's checking
>from LT blue wire to Ground) I can also dim the lights and it goes away?????
>I might have to call in Chevy Duty He He He
>I've got spare Light switch, Instrument Cluster,Dimmer Switch and every
>thing checks the same as in the truck so I am beginning to think it's in the
>harness or I am reading the resistance across the Ammeter ?????
>HooT58
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jose quesada" <quesadaj@inreach.com>
>To: "Billy Gibson" <bgibson@internetwork.net>; "A Old Trucks Chat"
><oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 10:04 PM
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Wireing
>
>
>> I had the same problem. Checked all wiring for two days I had "shorts"
>> everywhere Decided to hook up the battery and be prepare to disconnect it
>> at the first sign of trouble..... everything worked!!! I have no idea
>> why..
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Billy Gibson" <bgibson@internetwork.net>
>> To: "A Old Trucks Chat" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2001 6:20 PM
>> Subject: [oletrucks] Wireing
>>
>>
>> > I know there are several on the list that has wired there
>> > TF's well I just finished mine, with the Chevy Duty harness, But before
>I
>> > put the Battery in I thought I would do some continuity checks, I found
>> > continuity on the main battery wire at the switch, so I'm thinking duh
>> short
>> > some were, I spent most of the day checking, switches,horn relays,dimmer
>> > switch, nothing checked bad,or grounded, does the Amp Gauge give you a
>> > continuity reading when it's in the circuit?
>> > Any ideas out there??or do you think I should install the battery and
>see
>> if
>> > it smokes?
>> > Help
>> > HooT58
>> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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