Tom,
My limited experience with rattle can clear coat paint is that it seems to
be softer than what is sprayed on at a paint shop. I have tried a couple of
different kinds including the auto touch-up kind and it is extremely
difficult to sand or buff, unlike the finish on the rest of my truck. About
the fine cracks in the steering wheel, maybe you could use a filler primer
and then sand and topcoat.
Terry Stellman
1949 3600
Missouri City, Texas
> -----Original Message-----
> From: EEHodges@aol.com [SMTP:EEHodges@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 9:02 PM
> To: tcape@weblnk.net
> Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Painting the Steering Wheel
>
> Tom,
>
> My steering wheel was painted with the interior - interior color and clear
>
> coat. I've not had good luck using the rattle can type clear coat on other
>
> projects (peeling after a short time). I'd suggest you go ahead with your
> black coats and take the wheel to a body shop as they are "always" using
> clear; shouldn't cost too much to get a coat of the real stuff.
>
> Good luck -
>
> Emory Hodges
> EEHodges@aol.com
> 48 Chevy 3/4 ton "Rack"
>
> In a message dated 12/5/2000 9:10:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> tcape@weblnk.net writes:
>
>
> > Joe, I'm planning to apply a clear coat over the enamel I'm using.
> Should
> > add to the shine. I bought "clear enamel" in the rattle can. I should
> be
> > ready for the painting tomorrow.......so if you have any suggestions, I
> sure
> > need them! Many thanks!
> > Tom Caperton
> > 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > tcape@weblnk.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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