A dual master gives you a little insurance if you loose your hydraulics you
will still have the other circuit. You can buy brackets to install one, I made
mine. My master is from a 70 Mustang with non power drums, under $40 at Napa.
Others use Chevy's though I'm not sure which. The manufacturer of the bracket
can advise.
You can change the fronts to bendix if you have the parts. If you plan on
doing king pins, you can just swap spindles. Other wise you have to drill the
spindle for two larger holes on the backing plate/steering knuckle.
Grant,
50 Chevy 3100
52 GMC 150
Deve Krehbiel wrote:
> I am wondering (I do that sometimes!) about which way is easiest and/or
> best... put the front hubs (backing plate,etc) from a 55 1st series over on
> the 50 3100, or move the backing plates and brakes from the torque tube onto
> the 55 1st rear end. One way you get the older and less efficient hucks, and
> the other way maybe those hubs and plates wont fit easily onto the 50 front
> end. I would rather not mix the two when I transplant the rear end. Also, I
> hear a lot about dual master cylinders. But why not just use the old one? I
> guess my hesitancy comes from a lack of knowledge on exactly how to install
> a dual (with proportioning valve) and what exact donor car to get the dual
> off of.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Grant Galbraith" <trks@javanet.com>
> To: <MKlepp4335@cs.com>
> Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 8:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Differential Problem
>
> > Mike,
> > I have Bendix all around on my '50 with 70 Stang non power dual master.
> Also
> > run kevlar composite shoes. While it stops very well normally, a trial
> panic stop
> > ot 65 couldn't get me off the binders fast enough. Add to this wet roads,
> N.J.
> > tolls, or frozen fog and it gets scary. I will be putting in a
> proportioning valve
> > this winter to cut down on ther rears with empty load
> >
> > Grant
> > 50 Chevy 3100
> > 52 GMC 150.
> >
> > MKlepp4335@cs.com wrote:
> >
> > > In a message dated 10/23/00 7:44:31 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > > dkrehbiel@kscable.com writes:
> > >
> > > << Braking system...good luck again trying to get your hucks brakes on
> the
> > > front to work with the modern rear. I hear a proportioning valve will be
> > > needed at least. I am not sure if this is a big deal or not. >>
> > >
> > > I have Hucks in front and Bendix on the rear with a non-power dual M/C
> from a
> > > Nova. I used no proportioning valve and the brakes work great. Plenty
> of
> > > stopping power.
> > >
> > > << Drive Shaft.. You might get real lucky and find a driveshaft that is
> the
> > > proper length. Probably not, so there is the expense of a custom
> driveshaft.>>
> > >
> > > I used a shaft longer than I needed (none were correct length) and had
> it cut
> > > down, welded and balanced for $60. No problems.
> > >
> > > Mike Klepp
> > > '48 3100
> > > Wichita Falls, TX
> > > http://www.geocities.com/mike_klepp/october_truckpage.html
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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