do you pull on the two ends of the tubing when you bend around sockets and what
size socket did you use?
Grant Galbraith wrote:
> As long as you have the brakes system apart why stop at one line. I would
> replace them all as well as hoses. Lines are reasonably priced and not that
> much extra money for piece of mind. I hear they can rust from the inside out
> also. You may find that at least half of the lines will work with standard pre
> made length. Even so once you bend and flare one line you see it's not that
> tough. Although I have tubing benders I make most bends around sockets.
>
> Grant
> 50 Chevy 3100
> 52 GMC 150
>
> W&D wrote:
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim House <jhouse@ccsolution.com>
> > To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Thursday, February 17, 2000 5:52 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Break cylinder question
> >
> > >However they attach to the break line into a small
> > >1/2 by 1 inch steel box like piece. Is this the correct way the rear lines
> > >should be connected?
> >
> > That fitting, usually brass, but may have been steel during the war years,
> > sometimes called a 'banjo fitting' was standard.
> >
> > >from the T in the back one of the medal lines has a kink in it. Should
> > this
> > >be replaced now. Or can I wait till summer. All this might me put off a
> > >few weeks if the big snow storm hits the weekend!
> >
> > Lots of bad things can come from a kinked brake line. Get your self a
> > double flairing kit and a tubing bender and make up a new line. You can use
> > these tools to replace other brakelines as well as fuel lines.
> >
> > Whitney Haist
> > CA
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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