I'd bet on the gas thing - I had almost the same problem. Let a friend talk
me into changing starters.
My problem was with the pick-up tube in the gas tank. It had a leak that
wouldn't feed the engine enough gas. I changed the pickup to the bottom of
the tank - no more problems.
Engine doesn't have to spin very fast. You might try jumping with 12V to get
going. Just don't leave the 12V on long enough to damage coil... and NO
lights with 12V.
Good Luck,
Emory Hodges
EEHodges@aol.com
48 Chevy 3/4 ton "Rack"
In a message dated 1/19/2000 12:22:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
stewartk@MBnet.MB.CA writes:
<< I am having some difficulty in getting a completely machine shop rebuilt
235
engine started. I had it fired up for about 15 seconds but have not had
much luck since. Occassionally, the engine will fire, but not really start.
I am still running 6volts and would prefer to stay that way. When the
engine is cracking it turns slowly enough that you can see the blades of the
fan turning. At one point in each revolution, the fan blades actual seem to
slow down.
I have had all sorts of advice ranging from: 1) all rebuilt engines are
tight; 2) tow it to start it, 3) once you get it going and it loosens up it
will start easier, 4) put in a four field starter.
I have three questions.
1. When cranking how fast should I expect the engine to turn over? For
example is one revolution of the fan blade per second about right?
2. How much will starting improve if I install a four field starter?
3. When cranking, how frequently should I see a spark at the number one
spark plug?
Yes, I have new plugs, wires, points, condensor, rotor. The spark is strong
out of the condensor to distributor wire, but not as strong at the spark
plugs. The carburator is leaking almost as much as a sieve and this could
be part of the problem why it won't continue to run.
Kevin
'52 1/2 ton. >>
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