Kevin,
I my experience a rebuilt engine that won't start is usually out of time.
I would take and crank the engine around to TDC (flywheel ball at pointer),
pull the distributor cap and adjust the distributor so that the points are
just opening. Be sure that you are on the left side of the lobe as the right
side would be just closeing. This won't be the correct timing for driving
but it should start and run.
Your carburator worries me though. A 6v engine is really hard to clear a
flood from because it cranks so slow. If your carburator is leaking gasoline
outside it will be leaking it inside also. It dosen't take but a few seconds
of running a VERY rich mixture to carbon foul a set of plugs.
When I first cranked my 235 after a carb rebuild I had a flooding problem.
It ran for about 30 seconds, died and would not restart. I switched the carb
and it still wouldn't start. I had to clean the plugs to get it to start be
cause they were so carbon fouled.
Lastly you could disconnect the wires from the starter, hook them together
and run the starter with 12 volts from jumper cables and not risk frying any
gauges or lights.
John
'49 Chevy 3800 Panel
'52 GMC 640 Firetruck
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Stewart <stewartk@MBnet.MB.CA>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 12:33 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] Starters
>I am having some difficulty in getting a completely machine shop rebuilt
235
>engine started. I had it fired up for about 15 seconds but have not had
>much luck since. Occassionally, the engine will fire, but not really
start.
>I am still running 6volts and would prefer to stay that way. When the
>engine is cracking it turns slowly enough that you can see the blades of
the
>fan turning. At one point in each revolution, the fan blades actual seem to
>slow down.
>
>I have had all sorts of advice ranging from: 1) all rebuilt engines are
>tight; 2) tow it to start it, 3) once you get it going and it loosens up it
>will start easier, 4) put in a four field starter.
>
>I have three questions.
>
>1. When cranking how fast should I expect the engine to turn over? For
>example is one revolution of the fan blade per second about right?
>
>2. How much will starting improve if I install a four field starter?
>
>3. When cranking, how frequently should I see a spark at the number one
>spark plug?
>
>Yes, I have new plugs, wires, points, condensor, rotor. The spark is
strong
>out of the condensor to distributor wire, but not as strong at the spark
>plugs. The carburator is leaking almost as much as a sieve and this could
>be part of the problem why it won't continue to run.
>
>Kevin
>'52 1/2 ton.
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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