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RE: [oletrucks] installing a rear end in a 50 3100

To: "oletrucks@autox.team.net" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [oletrucks] installing a rear end in a 50 3100
From: George Long <longgw@nni.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 11:37:14 -0400
If you want a real strong 4 speed how about a rock crusher mucie?

nate long       
54 3600

-----Original Message-----
From:   John Dorsey [SMTP:jrdorsey@strato.net]
Sent:   Saturday, June 19, 1999 3:03 PM
To:     oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject:        Re: [oletrucks] installing a rear end in a 50 3100

John Dorsey wrote:
> 
> GM used the same 3/4 and 1 ton differential up to at least 1972 and many
> of the later trucks had "better" ratios than ours. It may well be that
> later corportate style differentials will also fit.
> 
> The 3600 had a half open drive line, it used the same transmission as
> the 1/2 ton with an enclosed drivshaft back to the center carrier
> bearing then an open driveshaft to the rear end. The 1 ton & up had an
> open drive shaft all the way. To change a 3600 to overdrive you would
> need to fabricate a forward drive shaft and use a different carrier
> bearing.
> 
> The only other thing is the s-10 transmission is light duty. GM never
> used it in 3/4 or 1 ton trucks. It will bolt in but don't expect to
> still be able to pull stumps with it :-) The NV/NP 4500 that GM uses in
> the new 1 tons is pretty darn bulletproof but uses a different bolt
> pattern :-(
> 
> --
> John   "49-50-54-57-79-95" Chevy 3800 Panel
> 
> Grant Galbraith wrote:
> >
> > Smokey,
> >     I have heard that a 80's center section will bolt into the housing of a 
>3/4
> > ton. I don't know this for a fact and otherwise am not really up on the 3/4
> > tons. A helpful salvage yard with an interchange book could tell you for 
>sure.
> > Other wise isn't the 3600 an open driveshaft? If so this would make it easy 
>for
> > you to put in an OD.
> >
> > Grant 50 3100
> >
> > Charles Culver wrote:
> >
> > > Grant-
> > >
> > > Sounds like you may have done something that I want to look at doing.  I
> > > have a '50 3600, stock except for the '59 235 engine.  I'm not sure if the
> > > 4-speed transmission and rear end came with the truck or the motor, but it
> > > runs great in its current condition.  With the big 16's on Ford 8-hole 
>rims,
> > > I cruise at 50, and can go 60 at a decent RPM.
> > >
> > > What I'm thinking about is changing the rear end for something a with a
> > > little less torque, and a little more economy.  Is this something that I 
>can
> > > do without cutting up the frame?  I'd love to keep it as stock as I can,
> > > with the drum brakes, and all, but would also like to drive comfortably on
> > > the freeway when I have to, and not use so much gas.  Any thoughts?
> > >
> > > Thanks-
> > >
> > > Smokey
> > > '50 3600 5-window
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
> > > To: RobXR250@aol.com <RobXR250@aol.com>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> > > <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > Date: Friday, June 18, 1999 7:12 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] installing a rear end in a 50 3100
> > >
> > > >I'm sure you will get a variety of opinions on your question. I 
>personally
> > > wanted
> > > >a old truck more than a rod but still wanted to be able to take it on the
> > > >highway. I also balked at $400 for a ring a pinion that  gives only 15 %
> > > >improvement. I went with a 235 and S-10 5 speed that has OD. Of course 
>for
> > > the 5
> > > >speed the torque tube had to go. Anything you use you will have to weld
> > > spring
> > > >perches on. I used a 3.90 out of a Task Force truck. Still has 6 bolt
> > > wheels and
> > > >the ratio is just right for OD trans. In OD you get a effective final 
>ratio
> > > of
> > > >2.808. None of these changes require a single hole to be drilled in the
> > > frame or
> > > >welding to the frame. I retained all the old parts but doubt I will ever 
>be
> > > >putting them back.  This combo is OK for the highway but with straight 
>axle
> > > and
> > > >drum brakes I still don't want to be dodging traffic in the left lane at 
>75
> > > and
> > > >prefer two lanes when possible. Even on two lane roads I drive 
>differently
> > > than
> > > >with a modern car and usually give everyone plenty of room and plan 
>ahead.
> > > Of
> > > >course this invites everybody to pull out in front of this old truck 
>coming
> > > down
> > > >the road and requires a different frame of mind than the competitive
> > > driving mode
> > > >so many are in here in Conn. Other things I added that I highly recommend
> > > is the
> > > >after market sway bar and radials. Good luck.
> > > >
> > > >Grant 50 3100
> > > >
> > > >RobXR250@aol.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> I recently purchased a 50 3100. since the cost of getting new gears for
> > > the
> > > >> rear end is $400 I'd rather just buy a new rear end from a salvage 
>yard.
> > > i
> > > >> was wondering if anyone has found a rear end that is easy to install 
>with
> > > >> minimal fabrication. Also im not sure if i'll be keeping the 216 and
> > > colum 3
> > > >> spd so if anyone knows of a engine/tranny set up that isn't bad, let me
> > > know.
> > > >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

-- 
John   "49-50-54-57-79-95" Chevy 3800 Panel
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

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