Smokey,
I have heard that a 80's center section will bolt into the housing of a 3/4
ton. I don't know this for a fact and otherwise am not really up on the 3/4
tons. A helpful salvage yard with an interchange book could tell you for sure.
Other wise isn't the 3600 an open driveshaft? If so this would make it easy for
you to put in an OD.
Grant 50 3100
Charles Culver wrote:
> Grant-
>
> Sounds like you may have done something that I want to look at doing. I
> have a '50 3600, stock except for the '59 235 engine. I'm not sure if the
> 4-speed transmission and rear end came with the truck or the motor, but it
> runs great in its current condition. With the big 16's on Ford 8-hole rims,
> I cruise at 50, and can go 60 at a decent RPM.
>
> What I'm thinking about is changing the rear end for something a with a
> little less torque, and a little more economy. Is this something that I can
> do without cutting up the frame? I'd love to keep it as stock as I can,
> with the drum brakes, and all, but would also like to drive comfortably on
> the freeway when I have to, and not use so much gas. Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks-
>
> Smokey
> '50 3600 5-window
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
> To: RobXR250@aol.com <RobXR250@aol.com>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, June 18, 1999 7:12 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] installing a rear end in a 50 3100
>
> >I'm sure you will get a variety of opinions on your question. I personally
> wanted
> >a old truck more than a rod but still wanted to be able to take it on the
> >highway. I also balked at $400 for a ring a pinion that gives only 15 %
> >improvement. I went with a 235 and S-10 5 speed that has OD. Of course for
> the 5
> >speed the torque tube had to go. Anything you use you will have to weld
> spring
> >perches on. I used a 3.90 out of a Task Force truck. Still has 6 bolt
> wheels and
> >the ratio is just right for OD trans. In OD you get a effective final ratio
> of
> >2.808. None of these changes require a single hole to be drilled in the
> frame or
> >welding to the frame. I retained all the old parts but doubt I will ever be
> >putting them back. This combo is OK for the highway but with straight axle
> and
> >drum brakes I still don't want to be dodging traffic in the left lane at 75
> and
> >prefer two lanes when possible. Even on two lane roads I drive differently
> than
> >with a modern car and usually give everyone plenty of room and plan ahead.
> Of
> >course this invites everybody to pull out in front of this old truck coming
> down
> >the road and requires a different frame of mind than the competitive
> driving mode
> >so many are in here in Conn. Other things I added that I highly recommend
> is the
> >after market sway bar and radials. Good luck.
> >
> >Grant 50 3100
> >
> >RobXR250@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >> I recently purchased a 50 3100. since the cost of getting new gears for
> the
> >> rear end is $400 I'd rather just buy a new rear end from a salvage yard.
> i
> >> was wondering if anyone has found a rear end that is easy to install with
> >> minimal fabrication. Also im not sure if i'll be keeping the 216 and
> colum 3
> >> spd so if anyone knows of a engine/tranny set up that isn't bad, let me
> know.
> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >
> >
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|