I also tried the weld the pivot method. I replaced the rubber bushings with
steel
round stock with hole in the middle, put in bolts and welded the whole mount
solid.
After about 5K miles I noticed oil on the housing where the mount for the pivot
was.
Found the axle housing cracked adjacent to the weld on the pivot mount. I now
prefer
welding on standard perches with U-bolts whichever housing is used.
Grant 50 3100
safesix@att.net wrote:
> Grant's solution is basically what I did. I avoided the
> spring perch surgery by merely replacing the center
> section (bolt-in from any AD truck), then welding up the
> flex bushings on the torque tube axle housing, after
> setting the pinion angle. This worked fine until I was
> able to do the job right with new perches. Not
> recommended as a permanent solution though...
>
> Jack / Winter Park FL
>
> > I'm sure you will get a variety of opinions on your question. I personally
> > wanted
> > a old truck more than a rod but still wanted to be able to take it on the
> > highway. I also balked at $400 for a ring a pinion that gives only 15 %
> > improvement. I went with a 235 and S-10 5 speed that has OD. Of course for
>the 5
> > speed the torque tube had to go. Anything you use you will have to weld
>spring
> > perches on. I used a 3.90 out of a Task Force truck. Still has 6 bolt
>wheels and
> > the ratio is just right for OD trans. In OD you get a effective final ratio
>of
> > 2.808. None of these changes require a single hole to be drilled in the
>frame or
> > welding to the frame. I retained all the old parts but doubt I will ever be
> > putting them back. This combo is OK for the highway but with straight axle
>and
> > drum brakes I still don't want to be dodging traffic in the left lane at 75
>and
> > prefer two lanes when possible. Even on two lane roads I drive differently
>than
> > with a modern car and usually give everyone plenty of room and plan ahead.
>Of
> > course this invites everybody to pull out in front of this old truck coming
>down
> > the road and requires a different frame of mind than the competitive driving
> > mode
> > so many are in here in Conn. Other things I added that I highly recommend
>is the
> > after market sway bar and radials. Good luck.
> >
> > Grant 50 3100
> >
> > RobXR250@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > I recently purchased a 50 3100. since the cost of getting new gears for
>the
> > > rear end is $400 I'd rather just buy a new rear end from a salvage yard. i
> > > was wondering if anyone has found a rear end that is easy to install with
> > > minimal fabrication. Also im not sure if i'll be keeping the 216 and
>colum 3
> > > spd so if anyone knows of a engine/tranny set up that isn't bad, let me
>know.
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> >
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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