I just did the same with my cables. After buying and returning repros because
the bezel part on the dash do not look like originals renewed mine. I replaced
the sheath by grinding out the spot weld. Slide out the old sheath, slide in
new and mig weld the ground out spot. I did same thing Carlos did with the
inside cable except I brazed it. BTW both can be done with one universal cable
cut in half, about 5 bucks.
The people who make the fresh air heater defrost cable do an excellent job
of reproducing these but I am told there is only one manufacturer for the choke
and throttle cables and they don't look correct. As usual when I returned them
I was told that I was the only one to ever complain. Guess I'm too picky for 40
bucks.
Grant 50 3100
Carlos F. Madero wrote:
> Your note on the throttle cable reminded me of a trick I learned years ago on
>renewing choke and throttle cables. I went to the store and bought two
>"universal" replacement choke cables. I pulled the inside cable completely
>out and cut it right where it joins the shaft. Did the same operation with
>the old cable (I think I actually had to cut a tiny piece of the end of the
>shaft). Then drilled a tiny hole in the end of the old shaft just big enough
>to put the new cable in. One can crimp it or solder it (I think I soldered
>mine). Then I took the new wound-wire outside sheath and cut it right where
>it joins the mounting tube. Did the same with my original cable and then
>joined the two.
> But you are right, I had to heavily modify a mount to use the choke cable,
>and the throttle cable I have not even installed. But after three years, my
>new/old choke cable is still working great.
>
> Carlos Madero
> '53 5 window-out-of-comission-waiting-for-new-king-pins-and-bushings
> ----------
> > Having found a VERY rusty 50 in a local yard, I have been nabbing parts
> > here and there...
> > one of which is a throttle cable, uncut, w/ the proper knob (looks like
> > someone 20 or 30 years ago was going to connect a new one, never finished).
> > While I know it goes through the little holder on top of my Rochester,
> > WHERE does the business end connect?
> > Should it go on the throttle lever, where the arm from the accellerator
> > crank gets hooked up? Is there a special barrel nut, or should it just be
> > looped thru the hole the cotter pin now sits in - etc etc.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > (btw - if any one need something, I'll look for it, but this truck is far
> > too gone to restore. I have the light switch, the knobs and the correct
> > rear bumper (at last). Seat frames look good, some ok trim).
> >
> > craig
> > caretaker of
> > stephanie's 50 3104 216 5-window deluxe
> >
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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