I, too, have used Duro Extend & I've found that it peels off easily. They
say that you don't have to remove all rust, just the scaly stuff & then
apply, but I can't help but think that the rust dust kept it from adhering
real good. I did clean much of the rust off before I put it on too. I
would try POR 15 before trying Extend again. From what list members are
experiencing & what I've seen at shows, it is now the best thing available
to fight rust.
Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-window
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Osborne <wcosborne@inetnow.net>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Rust
>I have used the product he mentions called Extend. I've never used
>the POR 15 that has been discussed on the list before, but I don't see
>how it can work much better than the Extend. I've had it on some
>areas underneath my truck for well over 5 years and the results are
>still astounding....Wayne
>
>
>At 10:22 AM 3/6/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>Humidity realy gets us in the southcental area. I had my body andparts
>> sand blasted. I had the blaster prime the whole thing immediately before
>>it started rusting. A pal of mine did a '57 restoration including sand
>>blasting. The day he picked really himid and about to rain. According
>> to him the color of the bear metal changed to a orange/red during the
>>trailering home.
>>
>>I have been getting a good result with a product called "Extend". It
>>comes in aero and brush. I cut out lots of wasted panel for sure. In
>> some areas less damaged I cleaned up the loose scale and treated
>> it with Extend. Its another of those that turn the base metal and
remaining
>> rust black, reportedly "bonding" the metal and hard rust together.
>> Its rock hard and paintable after drying. I have found it at NAPA and
>> a few other parts stores. I have only one (mild) winter for personal
>>tests but it looks pretty good.
>>
>>Lonnie
>>one post cancer patient, '53 Chevy
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Charles Culver <sculver@iwl.net>
>>To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>Sent: Saturday, March 06, 1999 10:29 AM
>>Subject: Fw: [oletrucks] Rust
>>
>>
>>>Being down here on the coast, we live with rust. We have a big marine
>>>industry, and a popular product to use against rust is Ospho. I've used
>>it,
>>>and it works great to stop and kill rust. Actually oxidized the existing
>>>rust, and turns it black. Then you paint it. The cost for a half gallon
>>>jug is about $16. Works for me-
>>>
>>>Smokey-League City, Texas (Galveston County)
>>>'50 3600 5-window
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Advdesign1@aol.com <Advdesign1@aol.com>
>>>To: rgilbertso@earthlink.net <rgilbertso@earthlink.net>;
>>>oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>>>Date: Saturday, March 06, 1999 3:49 AM
>>>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Rust
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>><< Once rust starts does it just continue to spread by itself or does it
>>>> need to have more moisture to spread? >>
>>>>
>>>>It will continue to spread. this is called creep. the rate of creep
>>>depends
>>>>on humidity, composition of steel, and adhesion of paint. I believe
>>>>permeability of paint ot oxygen is also a factor but never saw this
>>>>discussed.
>>>>
>>>>Bob ADler
>>>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>>
>>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>>
>>
>>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>>
>
>---------
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne
>For a quick view of oletrucks mailing list members trucks go to:
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/member.html
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|