No TR-3s or 4s ever came with inserted valve seats to my knowledge. I would
say that the head that you were working on had been worked on by someone
else before you and they installed the valve seats that you saw.
Greg
Solow
----- Original Message -----
From: The Charltons <charlton@flash.net>
To: <morgans@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2000 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: A few more Questions
>
> From: Phil Roettjer <Phil.Roettjer@quantum.com>
> >People
> >have made fun of my additive on this list before, so at the risk of
further
> >ridicule I will say that I use about 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil
>
> I believe I heard the MM oil's formula has changed and that it's not as
> effective as a fuel additive as it used to be. Anybody else know about
> this?
>
> Also, when I had the cylinder head off a TR3 (could have been a TR4
engine,
> though) back in the early 1980's I noticed it had valve seat inserts.
This
> was when leaded premium was rare but still available, so I assumed it came
> from the factory this way. Is this the case, and are they hardened enough
> to do without a valve-wear preventative?
>
> >I wouldn't use a rubber mallet since I don't think you would be able to
get
> >the knock offs tight enough. I use one with copper on one side and rolled
> up
> >rawhide on the other. I find that I can get the knock offs tight enough
> with
> >the raw hide side and not do any damage to the chrome. However I do pound
> >the p out of the knock off since I would rather have a few dings in it
than
> >have it fall off.
>
>
> The information I got when I had a couple of TR3's was NOT to tighten the
> knock-off with a mallet, and that it was engineered to tighten itself as
you
> drove forward. The slight wobble of the wheel precesses during driving to
> tighten the knock-off, so the theory went. I don't recall hammering away
> beyond a few taps when installing a wheel. The hub was angled so that it
> was harder to hammer on than to hammer off. No matter what I did, it
always
> seemed to take plenty of whacks with my copper-faced hammer (I probably
got
> this from the Roadster Factory, since they typically provided the best
deals
> on TR parts back then) to get it off again.
>
> Duncan
>
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