From: Phil Roettjer <Phil.Roettjer@quantum.com>
>People
>have made fun of my additive on this list before, so at the risk of further
>ridicule I will say that I use about 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil
I believe I heard the MM oil's formula has changed and that it's not as
effective as a fuel additive as it used to be. Anybody else know about
this?
Also, when I had the cylinder head off a TR3 (could have been a TR4 engine,
though) back in the early 1980's I noticed it had valve seat inserts. This
was when leaded premium was rare but still available, so I assumed it came
from the factory this way. Is this the case, and are they hardened enough
to do without a valve-wear preventative?
>I wouldn't use a rubber mallet since I don't think you would be able to get
>the knock offs tight enough. I use one with copper on one side and rolled
up
>rawhide on the other. I find that I can get the knock offs tight enough
with
>the raw hide side and not do any damage to the chrome. However I do pound
>the p out of the knock off since I would rather have a few dings in it than
>have it fall off.
The information I got when I had a couple of TR3's was NOT to tighten the
knock-off with a mallet, and that it was engineered to tighten itself as you
drove forward. The slight wobble of the wheel precesses during driving to
tighten the knock-off, so the theory went. I don't recall hammering away
beyond a few taps when installing a wheel. The hub was angled so that it
was harder to hammer on than to hammer off. No matter what I did, it always
seemed to take plenty of whacks with my copper-faced hammer (I probably got
this from the Roadster Factory, since they typically provided the best deals
on TR parts back then) to get it off again.
Duncan
|