To do any of this you will need to compress the spring, by supporting the
front of the car securely, then jacking the wheel up so the damper arm is
just off the rebound rubbers, then undoing the lower bolt.
You need to disconnect the lower trunnion bolt to replace the seals and
washers etc., and the kit should come with the inner bushing/spacer. The
bolt can seize in the spacer, which means removing the lower A-arms (or the
front one at least) and possibly replacing it/them. These can oval the
lower bolt holes as well as cutting into the bolt and cause incorrect
steering alignment as well as miscellaneous clonks. Pay careful attention
to correct reassembly, and use copper grease 'tween bolt and spacer.
Carefully check the lengths of the new and old spacer tubes is identical.
If you replace the upper rubber bushes you could well have to hacksaw
through the top bolt both sides, undo the damper arms clamp bolt and lever
them apart a little to avoid damaging them or the swivel axle. Again use
copper grease between the bolt and the new bushes. Check the new bolt and
nut, it is supposed to be a special bolt with a split-pin hole and a
low-profile castellated nut. However most upper kits I have seen for years
come with the correct bolt but a Nyloc nut and the bolt isn't long enough to
protrude the required two or three threads through the nylon.
The parts catalogue shows exactly the same arrangement for the later cars as
the early - an upper and a lower mounting pad plus a clamp plate under the
lower pad.
V8 bushes will press into the A-arms with a couple of sockets (one to fit
inside the A-arm hole and one to press on it but be large enough for the
bush to go inside) and a bench vice. Washing-up liquid or Swarfega Original
(the smooth green stuff) makes a good lubricant. You can make sure the
inside of the holes is free from nibs before you start. Don't fully
retighten the inner A-arm bolts (to the crossmember pin) until the full
weight of the car is on its suspension and has been bounced a couple of
times.
Unless the anti-roll bar links are obviously worn I'd leave them as they
are, the last times I had to remove mine I had to cut them out of the
A-arms. Fortunately I was replacing these anyway.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> Should I figure on replacing the seals, washers, etc on the
> lower trunnions?
>
> Looks like the later B's used more mounting pads on the crossmember -
> can anyone confirm exactly whats required?
>
> I'm planning on using the V8 bushes - do they need to be pressed in? If
> so, will a large bench vise suffice?
>
> What is the collective wisdom on replacing the (25 year old) sway bar
> links while it's all apart?
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