That sounds pretty complicated.
With a straight stick, like a Mk. II MGB, I would think you could just saw
an inch or so off the top, and re-thread it with a die. I have contemplated
cutting down the one on my B. It has plenty of extra threads -- I could cut
off 3/4 inch and still get the knob on.
I take it you were trying to shorten the section below the bend.
on 3/3/05 2:21 PM, James Juhas at james.f.juhas@snet.net wrote:
> Shortened gear shift levers are not hard to do, but it does require some
> welding and finishing work. In my Sprite, the lever was way too long to
> suit me, with 1st and 3rd crashing my knuckles against the dash. I cut
> an inch out of a relatively straight portion, ground each remaining end
> to a point, tack welded the points together to allow alignment, and then
> filled the rest with weld. I used a TIG but other methods will work as
> well. After the welding, I filed the area down, and put it in a lathe
> to smooth it. Final touch was a black powder coat because by now the
> plating had been destroyed.
>
> I'm planning on doing the same for the MGB.
>
> Barrie Robinson wrote:
>
>> Folks at world,
>>
>> My 1970 MGB has an SD1 gearbox installed with a Rover V8 engine. The
>> gear stick sticks up rather high and I remember reading somewhere that
>> it should be cut down. Anyone have advice on this? What is the
>> height of an MGB stick above the tunnel face (not the console!)?
>>
>> Regards
>>
>> Barrie Robinson
>> barrie@look.ca
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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