Fit points and a condenser. Seriously, substitution is about the only way
electronic ignition systems can be faulted, and points and condenser are
cheaper than a new ignition system. What complicates matters is that it was
a 45DE and so won't have the points plate ground wire, and without this
points won't work properly either. With points I have had backfiring on
acceleration when the gap closed (or was it opened?) right up.
It isn't possible to put the distributor *fully* back 180 degrees out, but
it is possible to get it partially back 180 degrees out and for the rotor to
appear to turn normally when the engine is turned by hand, but it slips when
running or cranking.
Probably the best bet to initially time a car with an electronic trigger is
to connect everything up but leave the plugs out, have No.1 connected and
lying on the block, and use a timing light in the normal way but while
cranking. That way you will also see whether you are even getting a spark.
Plug lead order should also be checked - 1 3 4 2 *anti*-clockwise. Also you
may need to check which *is* No.1 lead on the distributor cap by seeing
where the rotor is pointing when No.1 piston is at TDC on its compression
stroke i.e. both valves closed.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: <MGBnutt@aol.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 5:39 AM
Subject: distributor help
> OK listers, I need some advice.
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