Norm,
I'd like to agree and disagree. I have removed and replaced engines both
ways. I have had success with just the engine coming out and had problems
that just dumbfounded me. I think it is a crap shoot, and I had all the
right tools etc. to do the job. MG's are MG's, things can be going along
great and all of a sudden a snaffu. Go figure. I think it is a curse from
Ghandi or something (-:
Jim
& replaced (R&R'd) my MGB engine 4 or 5 times. Got the time down to about 4
hours total (1-1/2 out, 2-1/2 in). Also did the BMC 948 in the Turner
twice. At no time did I have any help. So, here's my Two-cents:
>
>A - Use Grade 5 bolts & washers for: front manifold stud hole & right-rear
>head stud. (Yes, this requires re-torquing the head. But, that's a good
>thing to do.) I have been told that Grade 8 bolts are more brittle than
>Grade 5. So, better to use 5's.
>
>B - DO NOT use rope or straps to lift! A fellow LBC racer did that last
>year & it nearly cost him a finger. The BRAND NEW strap he used was rated
>for over 1,000 lbs. But, it must have caught an edge or something & it
>snapped. The engine fell. But, thanks to micro-surgery, he still has all
>of his fingers. But, he was out of racing for about 4 months with casts,
>bandages, etc. on his hand. So, use a length of good chain. And, be
>careful.
>
>C - You DO NOT need to remove the trans with the engine. Everyone said it
>would be very difficult to align the splines on the pilot shaft with the
>clutch disc. However, on almost every installation, I was able to get
>perfect alignment on the very first try. Once it took all of about a
>minute & a half to get it. You will need one of the clutch alignment tools
>to preserve disc alignment while bolting up the pressure plate.
>
>D - A floor jack under the front of the transmissionis the only other
>assist needed.
>
>The above allows sufficient alteration of the angle of the engine with just
>a little bit of muscle. And, it works with relative safety.
>
>Norm Sippel
>'66 MGB
>'59 Turner
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