The alternator replaces the control box on the inner wing. You should still
have a voltage regulator for the relevant gauges on the firewall inside the
cabin.
The panel lights are fed from the first position of the main lighting
switch, which lights the side and rear lights. If these are OK the switch
is obviously OK. From the switch it goes via a rheostat on the dash that
varies the dimness. These frequently fail, and are expensive to replace for
the use they are. If this is the problem you can bypass it, there is
usually a spare spade on one or both of the terminals of the rheostat, so
you can move one of the connectors from the other terminal to this spare
spade. That should get them working but they won't be adjustable.
The horn is powered from the bottom fuse with the courtesy and boot/trunk
lights so this is the first thing to check.
Do the turn lights glow and not flash? Or not come on at all? Both sides
or just one?
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Shidler" <allfacts@bellsouth.net>
To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: Help Identifying Electrical Componets
> Thanks to everyone who responded to my question. My alternator has been
> converted to a 3 wire...so I suppose that that the regulator is built into
> it and that is the reason voltage stabilizer that is supposed to mounted
on
> the firewall is not there.
>
> BTW, I was able to get all my guages and instruments working. wirth the
> exception of the panel lights and the horn. The turn signals are
> intermittant.
>
> Is there any one obvious answer to the dash light problem?
>
> Thanks, John Shidler
///
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