Thanks Dave for the feedback.
I don't think there was any question about being able to feel different
amounts of damping. The question was is there a better ride or performance
increase by changing to tube shocks? Ones that could be quantified,
objectively rather than subjectively. What may be "way too firm" for you
many be just right for me. But information like "It took me 4min 30 secs
averaged over 3 runs with the Koni's and 4 min 20 secs (okay I am giving
the
levers the advantage--but just hypothetically mind you) with the Armstrong
lever shocks. Both in good condition. Track was at < you fill in here>".
This would be indisputable and would be fact. Also might prove that the two
shocks types are closer in actual track performance than one might think.
(Or not). It might just end up being a pure matter of taste. Whether you
"like" the ride of a certain shock or not.
One of the respondents to this thread mentioned an article in Car and
Driver
that compared the two shock types in different MGs. All the drivers ended
up
allegedly ended up favoring the lever shocks. I do not have any more
information on Vol number or date. Does anyone else have this information??
Kind regards..
Tim Economu
'69 MGBGT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Hill" <Davhill@btinternet.com>
> To: "Chris Attias" <cattias@cats.ucsc.edu>; "MG Listserver"
> <mgs@autox.team.net>; "Tim Economu" <economu@whidbey.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 2:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Tube shock conversion data
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I've found that you don't need track data to tell the difference between
> > overdamping and useable settings.
> > The Konis on the back of my GT were set way too firm; with good road
tyres
> > this gave surprise oversteer on bumpy surfaces, particularly in the wet.
> > Now, the units are set at 1/2 a turn , which gives a good compromise
> between
> > ride quality and grip.
> > A long time ago (in a garage far, far away), I also rebuilt a Bill
> Nicholson
> > Racing B Roadster and experienced very similar behaviour with Armstrong
> > adjustable lever dampers on the rear. So, I would suggest that for road
> use,
> > fine-tuning the settings to taste appears to be the valid option (Nomex
> > knickers duly donned).
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Dave H
> >
> > Can I Telework for you? See what I do, at...
> > http://www.angelfire.com/biz4/davtel/index.html
> > Troubled by a phobia? Know someone who has one? Go to...
> > http://www.angelfire.com/de/ukphobias/index.html
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Chris Attias <cattias@cats.ucsc.edu>
> > To: MG Listserver <mgs@autox.team.net>; Tim Economu
<economu@whidbey.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 6:10 PM
> > Subject: Re: Tube shock conversion data
> >
> >
> > > At 9:30 AM -0600 6/8/2000, Tim Economu wrote:
> > > >Yes I agree. Let's see track data and let's hear from the experts!!
> > >
> > > I guess the big question is, do you really want to drive on the track
> > > or the street? Do you autocross on the weekends? The setup--spring
> > > rates, ride height, horsepower, sway bar spec, aftermarket suspension
> > > stuff like panhard rods or antitramp bars, tires, etc.--for a given
> > > road condition (from smooth track to rough street) will have a lot of
> > > bearing on shock spec and evaluation. A setup that turns in great
> > > track times probably won't give you either good seat-of-the-pants
> > > road feel or quickness on the street. Different courses for
> > > different horses...
> > >
> > > IMHO, levers are probably perfectly good for street driving with a
> > > stock suspension, but as you re-engineer the suspension, things will
> > > change.
> > >
> > > When I was looking into suspension setup, I found an article about
> > > the rally cars Ron Gammons (Brown and Gammons,
> > > http://www.ukmgparts.com/) set up. His CB MGBs have won numerous
> > > European vintage rally events (driven by his customers, pros like
> > > Stirling Moss, and himself.) His cars have been set up to meet the
> > > requirements of vintage rallying sanctioning bodies (minimal/period
> > > modification) and to be dead reliable. From what I've read, he uses
> > > competition-valved levers, an only slightly lowered CB suspension,
> > > and only slightly stiffer springs and front anti-roll bars. Keeping
> > > the wheels on the ground over uneven road surfaces and neutral
> > > steering response, are key requirements.
> > >
> > > I would tend to think that for the street, seat of the pants is a
> > > good enough indicator of whether a modification is worthwhile.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Chris Attias
> > > '64 MGB
> > > '84 Alfa Romeo GTV-6
> >
> >
> >
>
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