Tim,
Peter Burgess' book on "How to power tune MGB engines" has a chapter on
suspension which basically indicates that you should renew the lever arm
shocks and rubber bushings and springs to "like new" condition and note how
well the car handles. Then, if you want to rally or race your car, you can
investigate converting to tube shocks and a double wishbone front suspension
with tubes. The gist of the article is that the MG's handle quite well as
designed.
I know that my 72 B doesn't handle as well as it did when it was new, but at
$100 per copy for rebuilt shocks, I haven't done anything about it. When
new, the car with 165 SR 14 steel belted tires handled very well and was
very controllable in 4 wheel drifts. Of course I was a lot younger then and
tended to test it out a lot more than I do now.
Dave 72 B, a little saggy at this stage (the car not me).
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Economu <economu@whidbey.com>
To: MG List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 11:16 AM
Subject: Fw: Tube shock conversion data
> Thanks Chris for the thoughtful and researched answer. Maybe I ask for too
> much. But I think for such a thing as a suspension system, maybe not.
>
> I would be happy with test data for ANY condition. Track or street, bumpy
> roads or smooth. Even highway cruising. Seat of the pants is OK for some
> things but if I were actually racing my machine and I were about to change
> geometry of my suspension system, I would want the real facts. Has nyone
> actually done track testing before and after conversion?
> I can't be the only one to wonder about a conversion that has questionable
> positive attributes, none that are verifiable with facts?
>
> Since my machine is my daily driver, I don't plan on racing, so it is
clear
> that I will stick with lever shocks. But for you racers, ask the question
> where is the proof that tube shocks will improve your times? Of course you
> can take the job of finding the answer yourself. Anybody about ready to
>make
> the conversion themselves that want to take this on??
>
> By the way I have heard from six or seven people who are likewise
skeptical
> of the any improvement from tube shocks, and I thank you all for
>responding.
> Also a couple enthusiasts who swear by the conversion (by the way).
>
> Do any of the business that sell conversions have any comparison data?
>
> Thanks again...
> Tim Economu
> '69 MGBGT with happy levers
>
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Chris Attias" <cattias@cats.ucsc.edu>
>> To: "MG Listserver" <mgs@autox.team.net>; "Tim Economu"
>> <economu@whidbey.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 10:10 AM
>> Subject: Re: Tube shock conversion data
>>
>>
>> > At 9:30 AM -0600 6/8/2000, Tim Economu wrote:
>> > >Yes I agree. Let's see track data and let's hear from the experts!!
>> >
>> > I guess the big question is, do you really want to drive on the track
>> > or the street? Do you autocross on the weekends? The setup--spring
>> > rates, ride height, horsepower, sway bar spec, aftermarket suspension
>> > stuff like panhard rods or antitramp bars, tires, etc.--for a given
>> > road condition (from smooth track to rough street) will have a lot of
>> > bearing on shock spec and evaluation. A setup that turns in great
>> > track times probably won't give you either good seat-of-the-pants
>> > road feel or quickness on the street. Different courses for
>> > different horses...
>> >
>> > IMHO, levers are probably perfectly good for street driving with a
>> > stock suspension, but as you re-engineer the suspension, things will
>> > change.
>> >
>> > When I was looking into suspension setup, I found an article about
>> > the rally cars Ron Gammons (Brown and Gammons,
>> > http://www.ukmgparts.com/) set up. His CB MGBs have won numerous
>> > European vintage rally events (driven by his customers, pros like
>> > Stirling Moss, and himself.) His cars have been set up to meet the
>> > requirements of vintage rallying sanctioning bodies (minimal/period
>> > modification) and to be dead reliable. From what I've read, he uses
>> > competition-valved levers, an only slightly lowered CB suspension,
>> > and only slightly stiffer springs and front anti-roll bars. Keeping
>> > the wheels on the ground over uneven road surfaces and neutral
>> > steering response, are key requirements.
>> >
>> > I would tend to think that for the street, seat of the pants is a
>> > good enough indicator of whether a modification is worthwhile.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chris Attias
>> > '64 MGB
>> > '84 Alfa Romeo GTV-6
>> >
>>
>
>
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