Dave,
I bought some PB Blaster, giving daily soakings, and I'm going to look for a
6pt socket at the flea market tomorrow. I'll let ya'll know what happens! If
I break a stud, I may be pushing my self-imposed deadline of 9 May for the
Carrolton, KY meet!
Any Listers going to be at Scottish Days in Carrolton? The Cincy Club puts
it on, and I've heard great things about it. I just don't want to be there
in a teal (ick) M**da (blech) MX-3 (urgh). I won't drive the Tahoe, since
I'd be embarrased to drop out of the LBC convoy to get gas (just kidding,
its not THAT bad).
Dan
'73 B (the Fumigator)
-----Original Message-----
From: Quirt, Dave <quirt@src.sk.ca>
To: 'Dan_Ray' <danray@bluegrass.net>
Cc: MG_mailing_list <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: Tools for B manifold to downpipe flange
>Dan:
>
>Good luck.
>
>For this job, I have used a 1/2" drive socket set with a 6" and 12"
>extension (total 18" for when car is jacked up) and a 6-point deep socket.
>The ratchet I use has a 16" handle - great for leverage. The 6-point socket
>won't round-off the nuts as quickly as will a 12-point socket. Use of an
>impact gun may work but may also shear off the studs rather than undo the
>nuts!!
>
>All that said, do everything you can to 'free' the nuts BEFORE you try to
>loosen them with the socket. I have variously used heat (from a torch) and
>WD-40 (and equivalents) and sometimes BOTH. In the end, all I can say with
>respect to these nuts is: sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
>
>Dave Q.
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