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Re: T5 Location

To: Larry Hoy <larryhoy@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: T5 Location
From: Jim Stuart <jimbb88@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 19:25:52 -0500
Cc: MGB Newsgroup <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
References: <NCBBJIKHPENAOIEIMKILIEPFFFAA.larryhoy@prodigy.net>
Reply-to: Jim Stuart <jimbb88@erols.com>
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Larry-

In between welding ants with ant welder I felt like using, I unbent the 4 short 
tabs by carefully prying with an old screwdriver.

Jim

Larry Hoy wrote:

> I know this is an old thread but I was "cleaning house" and had a question on 
>this.
>
> Jim, you said, " Before doing ant welding, carefully take the shifter apart, 
>as there are some plastic pieces inside that do not
> tolerate the heat from welding."  You might have gotten this wisdom about the 
>plastic parts the same way I did ... but lets not go
> into this.  My question is, how do you get the shifter apart?  Mine had one 
>heck of a thick steel plate which was bent on the edges
> into a U shape to hold everything together.  Did you just unbend this plate? 
>(easier said than done)
>
> Hehehe, I just re-read this.  Jim, just how do you weld an ant ...
>
> Larry Hoy
> "It's not how fast you go, it's how fast you go fast"
> http://pages.prodigy.net/larryhoy/
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
> >Behalf Of Jim Stuart
> >Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 4:05 PM
> >To: Bruce
> >Cc: MGB Newsgroup
> >Subject: Re: T5 Location
> >
> >
> >Cut off the arm as short as possible, marking which side is the driver's
> >side/passenger side. You have several choices of what arm to use, I chose a
> >slightly curved early B lever. Before doing ant welding, carefully take the
> >shifter apart, as there are some plastic pieces inside that do not tolerate 
>the
> >heat from welding. Weld a spacer onto the side of the stub arm that is thick
> >enough to center the arm in the hole, then weld the new arm to the spacer. 
>Now
> >your shifter will work with the stock console.
> >
> >The same thing can be done with the aftermarket shifters, such as the B & M.
> >These have a bolt on arm, which is too long. By the way, get the shifter for 
>the
> >S-10, not the Camero or the lever will be crooked to the side. Cut off the 
>arm,
> >drill new holes. use the part cut off to make a spacer. Use grade 8 hardware.
> >The aftermarket shifters will not be a perfect fit in your console as they 
>are
> >wider, front to back that the rod that is used as a stock lever, so you will
> >have to open out the console a little. I used a Hurst in my GT, with a Hurst
> >rectangular boot & surround, & a shifter per part one in my current project 
>1967
> >V8 Roadster.
> >
> >
> >Jim Stuart
> >
> >Bruce wrote:
> >
> >> Picked this up from somewhere quite some time ago "The gearshift lever on
> >> the T5 comes out within 3/4" of the stock location! ( You do have to 
>shorten
> >> the lever, however, as it's way too tall." As my tranny is now positioned
> >> and it looks like it's about 3/4 within the stock location (3/4 to wards 
>the
> >> passengers side) I was wondering if the hole where the gear shift lever has
> >> to be cut? I plan on look at this tomorrow but just thought some one out
> >> there might know.
> >>
> >> Bruce

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