Larry et al, off the top of my head, I don't remember how it came apart, but
it just comes apart without unbending the plate. My best guess is that the
pivot for the shifter has a spring clip on it that once removed the pivot pin
can be pulled out. There is a spring and some washers in there that you have to
remember how to reinstall but it is pretty easy to do.
My fitment was similar to the one described in the original question, the
shifter was about an inch off center. What I did was disassemble the shifter
and bend the arm 90deg over then 90deg up to bring the stick out the center of
the stock hole in the car. I heated both bends and heat treated the affected
area. Afterwards I checked it and it is plenty strong after doing this so I
don't think that the heat will be an issue at all. YMMV naturally.
--
James Nazarian
71 MGB roadster
71 MGBGT (the one that is supposed to be a v8)
01 Impreza 2.5RS
A complex system that does not work is invariably found to have
evolved from a simpler system that worked just fine.
On Wed, Jan 03, 2001 at 10:34:14PM -0700, Larry Hoy profoundly declared:
> I know this is an old thread but I was "cleaning house" and had a question on
>this.
>
> Jim, you said, " Before doing ant welding, carefully take the shifter apart,
>as there are some plastic pieces inside that do not
> tolerate the heat from welding." You might have gotten this wisdom about the
>plastic parts the same way I did ... but lets not go
> into this. My question is, how do you get the shifter apart? Mine had one
>heck of a thick steel plate which was bent on the edges
> into a U shape to hold everything together. Did you just unbend this plate?
>(easier said than done)
>
> Hehehe, I just re-read this. Jim, just how do you weld an ant ...
>
> Larry Hoy
> "It's not how fast you go, it's how fast you go fast"
> http://pages.prodigy.net/larryhoy/
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
> >Behalf Of Jim Stuart
> >Sent: Monday, December 18, 2000 4:05 PM
> >To: Bruce
> >Cc: MGB Newsgroup
> >Subject: Re: T5 Location
> >
> >
> >Cut off the arm as short as possible, marking which side is the driver's
> >side/passenger side. You have several choices of what arm to use, I chose a
> >slightly curved early B lever. Before doing ant welding, carefully take the
> >shifter apart, as there are some plastic pieces inside that do not tolerate
>the
> >heat from welding. Weld a spacer onto the side of the stub arm that is thick
> >enough to center the arm in the hole, then weld the new arm to the spacer.
>Now
> >your shifter will work with the stock console.
> >
> >The same thing can be done with the aftermarket shifters, such as the B & M.
> >These have a bolt on arm, which is too long. By the way, get the shifter for
>the
> >S-10, not the Camero or the lever will be crooked to the side. Cut off the
>arm,
> >drill new holes. use the part cut off to make a spacer. Use grade 8 hardware.
> >The aftermarket shifters will not be a perfect fit in your console as they
>are
> >wider, front to back that the rod that is used as a stock lever, so you will
> >have to open out the console a little. I used a Hurst in my GT, with a Hurst
> >rectangular boot & surround, & a shifter per part one in my current project
>1967
> >V8 Roadster.
> >
> >
> >Jim Stuart
> >
> >Bruce wrote:
> >
> >> Picked this up from somewhere quite some time ago "The gearshift lever on
> >> the T5 comes out within 3/4" of the stock location! ( You do have to
>shorten
> >> the lever, however, as it's way too tall." As my tranny is now positioned
> >> and it looks like it's about 3/4 within the stock location (3/4 to wards
>the
> >> passengers side) I was wondering if the hole where the gear shift lever has
> >> to be cut? I plan on look at this tomorrow but just thought some one out
> >> there might know.
> >>
> >> Bruce
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