Thanks all for all the advice. The diff and rear end was rebuilt with
all new bearings etc. and a better ratio when I restored the car - only
done 2000 miles since. So no need to do anything there. I did reuse the
original axles which was probably a mistake considering the money I
spent on the car! I have now ordered two of the modern uprated ones. The
hub bearings are new, but I will replace the seals - discovered one was
leaking a bit so need to get the shoes relined as well. It looked like I
had pushed the seal too far into the hole so it was right up against the
bearing and it was not making good contact on the collar.
Have now stripped out both sides. RH axle has broken just inside the
distance piece at the end of the tube - so I guess and swarf will be
outside of the actual diff casing and in the tube? But perhaps not?
Drained the oil and it is clean.
Cheers
Douglas,
I had the same situation last year - snapped an axle about 20 yards from
my garage. Unfortunately, it was 20 uphill yards.
Mine snapped in the same place, leaving an axle stub stuck in the diff.
To answer your question, yes, you can withdraw the other axle and push
the broken bit out. We were able to do it with a long metal rod. I
almost seem to remember that we had to bend the end of the rod to
accomodate some obstruction in the diff (I could be wrong, though) Take
a look at a diagram of the diff so you can "see" where the rod has to go
and you'll figure it out, I'm sure.
You won't need a slide hammer, since you'll be pushing the stub out -
you can just bang on the end of the rod with a heavy hammer. The slide
hammer is used for pulling things, and it sounds like you've already
gotten one axle pulled out, now you just need to pull the other one out
the same way.
I wouldn't discount the advice of those who are urging you to rebuild
the diff. But, that said, I didn't rebuild mine. I just put a NOS axle
in and it has been fine. Actually, I put two NOS axles in, since I had
both the old ones out.
I would recommend you ask around about axle quality. NOS axles and the
specially made, new, competition axles that some people are offering on
ebay and the like are my personal recommendation (based on no expert
qualification of my own).
I have been warned-off new axles that are sold commercially, although
the last time I mentioned that on this list, I got a vaguely threatening
email from one of the large commercial suppliers, along with
specifications for their axles indicating that they were of more than
adequate quality. So take it for what it's worth. They're probably
fine. I didn't want to take the chance.
The only other thing I'd mention, although I'm sure I don't have to, is
to replace both outer bearings and the seals while you're at it.
They're so cheap it's not worth re-using the old ones.
I can find the contact information for the guy I got my axles from if
you can't find something more local - at the time he had both NOS and
competition axles available.
Hope this helps. Keep us posted
Cheers,
-Mike Eldred
1954 TF 1250
Wilmington, Vermont.
> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:17:28 +1200
> From: Douglas.Ormrod@neurological.org.nz
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Mg-t] Broken axle
>
> I snapped an axle yesterday - bummer.
>
> I have taken it out and it has broken way up inside at the diff end.
> Seems to have snapped just inside the outer bearing in the diff
carrier.
>
>
> So do I have to take the whole rear end out and split the diff or can
I
> take the other shaft out and push the broken bit through form the
other
> side? If it can be pushed through do I need one of those slide hammer
> things shown in the manual or will the intact shaft come out fairly
> easily? I guess I should replace both axles at this point.
>
> Any advice on the job gratefully accepted.
>
> Cheers
>
> Douglas in New Zealand
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