Aron, I had a caliper on the back of one of my bikes that had worn so bad at
the ears that push on the sationary pad(stationary to the caliper that is),
that it was contacting the rotor at a very heavy angle. As a temporary repair
(until I got a new caliper) I used an endmill bit and shaved the pads at the
opposing angle to get by,(I was going to weld up the ears on the caliper but
really didn't want to put that much time into it to be able to ride for a few
weeks as it was gong ot get replaced anyway. At any rate, the mill worked
great on the pads with a 1/2" diameter 4 flute bit. I believe I would space
the caliper halfs as Dave suggested(as yours are hitting square), if it's a 2
piece caliper(and not 2 or 4 opposing piston caliper that requires
intermediatte seals). Or it off the steel backing plate of the pad(if the
backs of your pads are flat backed), to keep as much pad as possible.
Not sure about car calipers, but of all the bikes I've worked on I do not
know of any that allow the piston to bottom out when fully compressed flush
with the body of the caliper.
Performance Machine has mutliple thickness pads for one of their harley
calipers to help with clearance issues of certain wheels/frames. Have you
tried another manufacturer's pads?
TD
> The wheel is tight enough that it needs two hands and a tough grunt
> to turn it. The reasons why I want to take so much is I'm not sure
> the caliper mounts are tightening down properly with the pads so
> tight, and I don't like the piston so tight against the bottom of
> the bore either. Maybe after I wear out these pads the rotor will be
> worn enough to take new pads, but I bet I'll have to still take a
> little bit off.
>
> -Aron-
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