Thanks for all the thoughts. I'm keeping this
one in my file. I like the table level gizzmo.
How about more detail on the frame rotator so you
could alway weld flat.
Dick J
--- john robinson <john@engr.wisc.edu> wrote:
> At 11:19 AM 4/25/01, you wrote:
> >See, that's what I mean. So many people say
> it
> >won't work, then there's you and a couple of
> >other guys that are doing it. I gotta think
> on
> >this some more. What I've got is the rolling
> >frame with a '49 Ford truck beam axle bolted
> to
> >the rails, and the rear end bolted to the
> rails
> >with U bolts. I can't see where it's going to
> be
> >any worse than a hard tail drag bike, or a go
> >kart. Power is only going to be 150-200 HP.
>
>
> Howdy, yup, I would say go for it with what
> you got, like you say, a
> sprung suspension can be put on and you can do
> always it at a later date,
> make sure!!!the frame is square! way I did it,
> I built a flat table, I
> used a pair of 6 inch channels, 2x2x3/8 angles
> and welded together with 1/4
> plate on the top , and 3/4 inch threaded rod
> adjusters at the corners for
> making the table flat and level, use four clear
> tubes of 1 inch plexi each
> with a mounted clear plexi ruler and connect
> them all together with tygon
> tubing, fill with water and food coloring and
> place on the four corners,
> adjust the adjusters until all tubes have the
> same amount of water in them,
> you are flat and straight! now build the frame
> on it....I also built into
> it a frame rotating gizmo so I could weld the
> frame with all "correct"
> welding, no welding from the bottom, all top
> down welding.... also, make
> the body panels removable, ALL of them.... or
> as many as you can, you want
> to be able to get the salt out of every nook
> and cranny....when building
> the drivers compartment and roll cage, MAKE
> SURE the driver and car is
> measured and built with his driver suit and
> helmet on, its' embarrassing
> when you get in the car at tech and you don't
> fit. (no I didn't have this
> problem but I did see somebody else have to
> take a mallet to the seat to
> allow for room for the drivers helmet)......if
> you use only pop rivets to
> hold panels or sheet metal to your car, they
> are alum or steel and only
> .004 thick and will rust/go away after a few
> years, use silicone glue in
> addition to the rivets......critical items such
> as ball joint mounts, draw
> it out full size first, you'll catch the errors
> there, and its easier to
> fix (big grin here) try to get around 12-15
> degree rake on the front end
> ((its' not called rake on a car but is on a
> motorcycle, now what the hell
> is that called???) caster, that's it 12-15
> degrees caster, that'll help
> steer straight, rules say not more than 20 I
> wouldn't go more than 15...
> Also, and here is a big problem, if
> you don't have suspension, how
> are you moving the car when getting from the
> end of the track to the pits,
> (or the pits to the track, same thing) the
> driver of the race car will be
> beat up pretty bad!!!!! if towed/pushed at over
> 8 MPH, remember, no
> suspension to soak up the bumps, and it'll be
> rough, TRUST ME ON THIS ONE!
> I built my car to be trailered when not under
> power on the track, I had
> only ONE tow ride at 25-30 mph ((seems like I
> was driving over 50,000
> railroad tracks the whole time I was being
> towed to the pits that first
> time....)) fighting the steering wheel while I
> tried desperately to snap
> together my seat belt.., all the time bouncing
> to the roof (((Not that far
> away either, no helmet too))) and trying to
> signal to the tow vehicle to
> SLOW THE &#@X% DOWN ahhh what a great time I
> had that first year, the
> stories, the memories ....
> I would also recommend a journal ,
> write down and take pictures of
> what you did, measurements, stuff that needs to
> be done and keep it in one
> place and religiously write in it every time
> you work on the car, it'll
> help you remember what needs to be done, what
> was done, and will trigger
> ideas too, and then when you are done is a neat
> record of all the trials
> you went through, also, it'll help you on the
> Salt, you need to write down
> all kinds of things so the next year you can
> set the car up the same
> way....air pressure, air temp, fuel type, jets,
> gearing, tyre pressure,
> timing, plug types, the list is long and you
> will forget from one year to
> the next....
> whew, this is a long one aint it? good luck and
> drive careful
>
> John Robinson, Mechanician
> Mechanical Engineering University of
> Wisconsin
> 1513 University Ave.
> Madison, Wi. 53706
> 608-262-3606
> FAX 608-265-2316
> Current World Land Speed Record Holder
> Bonneville Salt Flats
> H/GCC 92 cu.in. 1980 Dodge Colt
> 131.333 MPH set 1995
> 136.666 MPH set 1996
> 140.292 MPH set 2000
> 144.396 MPH set 2000
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