Dick,
Not sure about your "buzz box" but welders that generate DC current can be
used to TIG (Heliarc). What would be needed is a TIG torch, Gas regulator
and Bottled gas. A few words about the TIG torch. There are several types,
water cooled, air cooled and they also come in different ratings (AMPS).
You should be able to get a air cooled unit, 75-125 AMP. The tungsten
electrodes the torch uses come in different sizes and require matching
"collets". There are also different size gas "cups" that screw onto the
torch and dispurse the gas. My brother had the address of a great welding
site I will try and get it.
Regards, Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick J" <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
To: <FastmetalBDF@aol.com>; <Nt788@aol.com>; <LGMCAFEE@aol.com>;
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 1:17 PM
Subject: Re: Welding 101
> So what about Larry Mac's comments about using my
> buzz box, getting the right torch, and adding a
> bottle of inert gas? Do I really have to buy a
> whole new rig?
>
> Dick J
>
>
> --- FastmetalBDF@aol.com wrote:
> > Dick, If you intend to work on lsr cars /
> > street rods / homebuilt
> > motorcycles
> > and the like for a number of years yet, the
> > best way to go is to get yourself
> > a TIG welding ( also referred to as HELIARC )
> > outfit .... this is how the PROS
> > do it, and to me it is the ULTIMATE way to
> > fasten metal together : aluminum
> > (or as it is known in the UK : ALUMINIUM
> > ),stainless steel, regular carbon
> > steel, titanium, magnesium, copper, and cast
> > iron . You said that you can
> > gas weld ..... TIG is much the same, torch in
> > one hand, filler rod in the
> > other,
> > only the heat for the arc is supplied by
> > electricity, and the inert gas is
> > for the
> > purpose of shielding the weld zone only,
> > whether argon, helium, or carbon
> > dioxide ...... or mixes like 75 % helium / 25 %
> > argon, etc. ...... it all
> > depends on WHAT you are welding on .
> > My take is ..... IF you can afford to do
> > some serious racing, and IF
> > you will be building the car(s) yourself, and
> > IF you can visualize yourself
> > being ABLE to do this for at least a few more
> > years ..... then you should
> > do yourself a BIG FAVOR and get TIG welding for
> > your shop .
> > IF you were a racer who is mainly an
> > engine builder type, and does
> > just a little welding on the car, or NONE, and
> > farms all of that out to
> > friends
> > or pro shops, then this advice might not apply
> > to you ..... everybody has
> > to figure out what they really need versus the
> > cost, and how often will they
> > need to use that equipment, and will the
> > equipment they already have
> > get the job done ..... to their satisfaction .
> > Much of the great technology in hot
> > rodding and race car building
> > came to us from the aircraft industry, which is
> > one of industry' s main
> > cutting edges in metalworking, and I believe
> > the TIG process was developed
> > by North American Aircraft in the early 40s
> > ...... but I might be incorrect
> > on that . Check out the welding you see on any
> > modern airplanes .....
> > I do every time I' m getting on an airliner
> > .... some nice looking welds
> > there, and rivet work, too !
> > Several thoughts there ......
> > YA PAYS YER MONEY & MAKES YER
> > CHERCE
> > Bruce
> > BTW : When I started gas welding (1954) the
> > word " torch " meant the
> > CUTTING torch ..... when we actually welded
> > metal together with the
> > smaller tips screwed onto the same handle, this
> > was technically referred to
> > as an oxy - acetylene blowpipe .....at least
> > according to the manufacturer .
> > In those days every garage and body shop had
> > oxy - acetylene welding
> > ..... but they did NOT all have arc
> > welding .....
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> * Dick J *
> * (In East Texas) *
> * # 729 *
> * C/GRS E/STR *
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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