Now your catching on.... Yeah the Glue is called BONDO.... Use lots... ask
Jack how to block sand it... Don't get to fancy with that Spray Bomb....Joe
is OLD and can't bent over like he used to.... Keep in Mind now you gotta
face Brad too.... ( He wears his Glasses... so be careful )
Keith
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick J" <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
To: "DOUG ODOM" <popms@thegrid.net>; "LAND-SPEED"
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2000 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Frozen Brake Drum Question
> Yup, there are two adjusters. I'm going to check
> around with the local Mopar dealers, some of em
> around here have been in business since they sold
> wagons. I ought to be able to find one of those
> pullers. Otherwise, it's going to be: heat the
> drum until its fading from red, and beat the
> gollywhumper out of it with a Keith-sized hammer.
> (I've just always tried to avoid using that
> technique - - mainly because of the "ski" on the
> end of my name!)
>
> I just pulled a drum off of an old Chev rear end
> and had to resort to burning two holes in it so I
> could pry the shoes loose. Needless to say, that
> rendered the left-over pieces of the drum a
> little useless - 'course, 67 Chev drums are more
> readily available than 54 Dodge drums.
>
> Keith, will Joe pass my car through safety tech
> if I grind the cracks in the brake drum real
> smooth after gluing them back together with Super
> Glue? Maybe a coat of Rustoleum flat black?
> What brand super glue do you use for that?
>
>
>
>
> --- DOUG ODOM <popms@thegrid.net> wrote:
> > Dick; I remember at the dealership we had a
> > puller that bolted to the
> > axle and you had to hit it hard with a BIG
> > hammer to get the drums off.
> > I think that those are duel plane brakes. You
> > have two adjusters on the
> > backing plate you have to back off. One for
> > each shoe. If you have an
> > old mopar dealership in your town they might
> > still have that puller in
> > the back room. It's a big heavy thing.
> > Doug Odom in big ditch
> > Dick J wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm taking in all this advice and will try a
> > > combination. There are no holes to pry from.
> > > The axles are tapered, presumeably with a
> > keyway.
> > > The axle flanges appear to be welded to the
> > > drums. I put a big puller on the lugs and
> > tried
> > > around 400 ftlbs of torque (using one of
> > those 4
> > > foot wrenches made for Porsche flywheels),
> > then
> > > hammered too. I was afraid I'd break the
> > puller.
> > >
> > > Dick J
> > >
> > > --- FastmetalBDF@aol.com wrote:
> > > > Dick, Does the drum have a large
> > hole
> > > > ( like 3 or 4 inch ) on its'
> > > > face
> > > > where the end of the axle sticks through to
> > > > take any shear loading off of the
> > > > lugs ...... as older chevs do ? They can
> > get
> > > > stuck like they were welded on
> > > > at this juncture of the axle & drum . That
> > is
> > > > why Chevrolet provided the two
> > > > " C " shaped holes, 180 * opposite each
> > other,
> > > > in the face of the drum .....
> > > > you hammer a pair of those hook shaped "
> > > > wedging " tools in between the
> > > > drum face and axle flange face and pry
> > outward
> > > > on both handles ......
> > > > usually does the job ..... many times the
> > drum
> > > > pops off right as you hammer
> > > > them in ..... sometimes you do need some
> > heat
> > > > to help coax them off ......
> > > > I do not know if your old Mopar has
> > > > those holes in the drums, or the
> > > > shouldered axle ends ..... never worked on
> > 'em
> > > > ..... my toys and daily drivers
> > > > were always flathead Fords n' smallblock
> > Chevs
> > > > . Be sure to check to
> > > > see if the drums are badly worn, and the
> > ridge
> > > > near the backside of the
> > > > drum is hanging up on the edge of the brake
> > > > shoes ...... this can be a real
> > > > headache if you don' t care to TURKhammer
> > them
> > > > ! ( he knows ALL
> > > > those Old World Craftsman precision tricks,
> > > > doesn' t he !!! )
> > > > Maybe you could make a custom puller
> > > > arrangement up with some
> > > > steel plate and big ( like 1" ) threaded
> > rod to
> > > > apply steady pressure ( AND
> > > > maybe some hearty raps on the drum ) ......
> > > > that has saved the day for
> > > > me a few times . Working with vintage tin
> > and
> > > > tired iron presents its' own
> > > > PROBLEMS ..... but it' s sure gratifying
> > when
> > > > you solve them !
> > > > Don' t forget the school of thought
> > that
> > > > if enough CHOICE words
> > > > are directed at the offending parts .....
> > ALL
> > > > will work out !!!
> > > > I graduated from that school long ago
> > > > ..... ( well, MOST of the time ! )
> > > > Have FUN ! Watch out for skinned knuckles
> > and
> > > > ruined parts .......
> > > > YOURS and
> > the
> > > > car' s !
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > =====
> > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > > * Dick J *
> > > * (In East Texas) *
> > > * # 729 *
> > > * C/GRS E/STR *
> > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > >
> > >
> __________________________________________________
>
>
> =====
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> * Dick J *
> * (In East Texas) *
> * # 729 *
> * C/GRS E/STR *
> * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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