See what I mean Dick.... here is another guy that agrees with me.... his
hammers weren't big enough so he went out and Rented a BIGGER HAMMER.... hey
while your there pick up a gross of that Super Glue.... neat stuff to put
all kinds of things back together.... like you can Stick them Pistons tops
back together.... so on and so forth.... Great Stuff....
Keith ( man I hate given all my speed secrets away like this )( hi Dan )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nafzger" <nafzger@vtc.net>
To: "Dick J" <lsr_man@yahoo.com>; <FastmetalBDF@aol.com>; <kturk@ala.net>;
<land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 5:58 PM
Subject: Re: Frozen Brake Drum Question
> Go to a good auto parts store and rent a puller from them. It is a special
> hub puller with a striking wrench that you strike with a hammer. The last
> time I used one of these was on a Jaguar XK 140 I was restoring for a guy.
I
> have never gotton one of those drums off with a regular puller if it's
> really stubborn.
> Howard
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dick J" <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
> To: <FastmetalBDF@aol.com>; <kturk@ala.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2000 1:54 PM
> Subject: Re: Frozen Brake Drum Question
>
>
> > I'm taking in all this advice and will try a
> > combination. There are no holes to pry from.
> > The axles are tapered, presumeably with a keyway.
> > The axle flanges appear to be welded to the
> > drums. I put a big puller on the lugs and tried
> > around 400 ftlbs of torque (using one of those 4
> > foot wrenches made for Porsche flywheels), then
> > hammered too. I was afraid I'd break the puller.
> >
> > Dick J
> >
> >
> > --- FastmetalBDF@aol.com wrote:
> > > Dick, Does the drum have a large hole
> > > ( like 3 or 4 inch ) on its'
> > > face
> > > where the end of the axle sticks through to
> > > take any shear loading off of the
> > > lugs ...... as older chevs do ? They can get
> > > stuck like they were welded on
> > > at this juncture of the axle & drum . That is
> > > why Chevrolet provided the two
> > > " C " shaped holes, 180 * opposite each other,
> > > in the face of the drum .....
> > > you hammer a pair of those hook shaped "
> > > wedging " tools in between the
> > > drum face and axle flange face and pry outward
> > > on both handles ......
> > > usually does the job ..... many times the drum
> > > pops off right as you hammer
> > > them in ..... sometimes you do need some heat
> > > to help coax them off ......
> > > I do not know if your old Mopar has
> > > those holes in the drums, or the
> > > shouldered axle ends ..... never worked on 'em
> > > ..... my toys and daily drivers
> > > were always flathead Fords n' smallblock Chevs
> > > . Be sure to check to
> > > see if the drums are badly worn, and the ridge
> > > near the backside of the
> > > drum is hanging up on the edge of the brake
> > > shoes ...... this can be a real
> > > headache if you don' t care to TURKhammer them
> > > ! ( he knows ALL
> > > those Old World Craftsman precision tricks,
> > > doesn' t he !!! )
> > > Maybe you could make a custom puller
> > > arrangement up with some
> > > steel plate and big ( like 1" ) threaded rod to
> > > apply steady pressure ( AND
> > > maybe some hearty raps on the drum ) ......
> > > that has saved the day for
> > > me a few times . Working with vintage tin and
> > > tired iron presents its' own
> > > PROBLEMS ..... but it' s sure gratifying when
> > > you solve them !
> > > Don' t forget the school of thought that
> > > if enough CHOICE words
> > > are directed at the offending parts ..... ALL
> > > will work out !!!
> > > I graduated from that school long ago
> > > ..... ( well, MOST of the time ! )
> > > Have FUN ! Watch out for skinned knuckles and
> > > ruined parts .......
> > > YOURS and the
> > > car' s !
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > * Dick J *
> > * (In East Texas) *
> > * # 729 *
> > * C/GRS E/STR *
> > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> >
> > __________________________________________________
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