Dick; If you get pinion to ring gear wear or movement you have a junk
gear set. My guess is that you have slop in the spider and side gears.
That you can check easy enough. Take the back cover off, move the ring
gear while holding the axle tight. See if that is where your slop is,
I'll bet you a moon pie and RC cola that's it.
Doug in big ditch
Dick J wrote:
>
> Yep, that's what I want to do, I just have to
> figure out how to get some slop out of the
> pinion. I can rotate it back and forth about 3-4
> degrees before it moves the ring gear. I think
> the pinion should be moved back a little, but I'm
> not sure how to do that. In a street car, those
> settings would be critical, but I don't care much
> about gear whine or wear, and for a rear end
> that's only going to have to live for about
> twenty miles (even if they are flat out miles)
> so I think a little "feeler guage" setting would
> serve just fine.
>
> Dick J
>
> --- Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net> wrote:
> > Dick the 10 bolt is actually a Very Low Drag
> > rear end... it's a good call
> > Hp wise... not many folks run them cause of the
> > hassle changing gears...
> > But if your sure you have the ratio you
> > want.... why not run it.... with
> > our limited Tire size your not going to shock
> > the tires much.... we aren't
> > running slicks here...
> >
> > Sounds like a Plan to me Dick....
> >
> > K
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Dick J <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
> > > To: land-speed@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Rear Ends
> > > Date: Wednesday, November 08, 2000 2:40 PM
> > >
> > > I know it aint the rear end of choice, but
> > has
> > > anybody ever set up a Chev 10 bolt? Is all
> > the
> > > ring and pinion play adjusted with removable
> > > shims, or is there an adjustment nut of some
> > > kind? Like I said, I know it's not the rear
> > end
> > > of choice, but I've got one sitting right
> > there
> > > under the workbench and it contains exactly
> > the
> > > ratio I want, and will easily handle all of
> > the
> > > horsepower I'll ever dream of making. Since
> > my
> > > car already has a 10 bolt in it, it would
> > sure be
> > > a lot simpler and cheaper to put some C-clip
> > > eliminators on it and use it. I know that
> > they
> > > aren't the greatest way to go either, but I
> > could
> > > put that rear end under my car for way less
> > than
> > > half what it would cost me to change to a
> > Ford
> > > 9". I mean, it's a direct bolt in. If I
> > switch
> > > to the Ford, there are all those nickel and
> > dime
> > > pieces like new spring perches, changing
> > either
> > > the driveshaft or moving the rear end
> > slightly to
> > > make up for the different pinion offset, new
> > > shocks, etc, etc. (To some guys, that's just
> > > part of racing, but I still have a co-driver
> > > whose going to be wanting to go to college in
> > > three more years! Know what I mean? I been
> > > there, done that, and gave up the shirt three
> > > times already. This one's the fourth and
> > last
> > > but it still has to be done!) If I can
> > adjust a
> > > little pinion play out of the 10 bolt that I
> > > have, I can drop it right in and spend my
> > money
> > > racing instead of fixin.
> > >
> > >
> > > =====
> > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > > * Dick J *
> > > * (In East Texas) *
> > > * # 729 *
> > > * C/GRS C/FRS D/STR *
> > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > >
> > >
> >
> __________________________________________________
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>
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