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Wholly agree. First thing I look for in a side shot is the slight curve
of the bottom rockers; when we restored my BN2 I ordered from Kilmartin
because their parts were faithful to the original curve. Another thing
that gives a resto away is the wire bead inside the rear wing edges;
unfortunately, when I replaced the doglegs on my BJ8 I got aftermarket
panels that didn't have the bead. I bought them later but haven't felt
compelled enough to redo them (plus, I haven't figured out how the meld
the existing bead with the replacement bead).
It's a common fallacy of owners of restored cars that their car is
'worth' what they've put into it, both in dollars and hours. The car is
worth what the market will offer, period. I also feel a resto of a
Healey is more difficult than the shiny 'restomods' you see on B-J and
other auctions. Healeys are a semi-monocoque (unibody) build; muscle
cars are usually body-on-frame, which is a simpler build (also, parts
are more available, from Summit and others).
Bob
On 11/9/2026 6:20 AM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
> What spoils a lot of otherwise nice cars for me is the line at the
> bottom of the front fender/wing. The line should have a subtle curve
> to it, but so many restorers have straightened out that line so it
> loses it curve. Even the Healey 3000 in the heritage museum at Gaydon
> has this problem. I guess itâ??s a lot easier to ignore the curve when
> repairing the rot at the bottom of the fenderâ?¦but the replacements
> from AH spares and others do have the correct line.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
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Wholly agree. First thing I look for in a side shot is the slight
curve of the bottom rockers; when we restored my BN2 I ordered from
Kilmartin because their parts were faithful to the original curve.
Another thing that gives a resto away is the wire bead inside the
rear wing edges; unfortunately, when I replaced the doglegs on my
BJ8 I got aftermarket panels that didn't have the bead. I bought
them later but haven't felt compelled enough to redo them (plus, I
haven't figured out how the meld the existing bead with the
replacement bead).<br>
<br>
It's a common fallacy of owners of restored cars that their car is
'worth' what they've put into it, both in dollars and hours. The car
is worth what the market will offer, period. I also feel a resto of
a Healey is more difficult than the shiny 'restomods' you see on B-J
and other auctions. Healeys are a semi-monocoque (unibody) build;Â
muscle cars are usually body-on-frame, which is a simpler build
(also, parts are more available, from Summit and others). <br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
 <br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/9/2026 6:20 AM, Stephen Hutchings
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:DB0AE292-D299-4F9B-AA3C-D5A039D86E6A@rogers.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
What spoils a lot of otherwise nice cars for me is the line at the
bottom of the front fender/wing. The line should have a subtle
curve to it, but so many restorers have straightened out that line
so it loses it curve. Even the Healey 3000 in the heritage museum
at Gaydon has this problem. I guess itâ??s a lot easier to ignore
the curve when repairing the rot at the bottom of the fenderâ?¦but
the replacements from AH spares and others do have the correct
line.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Stephen, BJ8<br>
<div><br id="lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature">
<div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPad</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
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