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Leaking! And leaking a lot!! Here's how I know, I had a water pump fail on=
a trip to Oregon, I was going to see Steve Pike, let him know I was going=
to be late and why, when I arrived by tow truck, Steve had gotten one of =
these new pumps from BPNW and it was waiting for me. Next day I told out t=
he old, put this pump in, hooked everything up and fired up! Lots and lots=
of leaks that threaded hole. Went through all kinds of jumps, hoops, and =
bends and made it good enough to drive home 365 miles. Then I fixed it wit=
h a "new" Permatex product and it's been great ever since. Drove it to LA,=
840 some miles, drove it around Europe 2500 miles, and back home from LA.=
No problems. Bottom line, it appears the threads in the casing are straig=
ht threads and not pipe threads, And from what I've been told, straight th=
reads are not water tight. So yea, that hole's purpose in this water pump =
is to leak. It can be worked around and knock wood, has been not leaking a=
nd working great for over 4K miles. I do check it quite often still though=
. Steven Kingsbury '55 BN1 On Dec 21, 2023, at 5:26 PM, Michael Oritt <mic=
hael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote: Does anyone know what the large (plugged) hol=
e is for? On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 2:51 PM Bob Spidell < bspidell@comcast.n=
et > wrote: Yep. Many/most pumps do have a hole--usually, looking like a c=
asting flaw--over the shaft between the pulley and the seal. It will weep =
coolant if the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded hole--half-inc=
h or so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it in this pic: https:=
//bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/ Bastuck, I =
believe, is a German company (Josef is familiar with them). Also, IIRC the=
threads on the shaft are a bit short, I used a thinner jamb nut to get go=
od purchase. Those threads may be SAE, but I don't recall. bs On 12/21/202=
3 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: Thanks Bob-- It is somewhat discouraging t=
hat what should be easy--sourcing a good and dependable water pump--seems =
like such a daunting task. As I mentioned I'd like to replace my present p=
ump--I believe the "uprated" version which I installed in situ several yea=
rs back and is working just fine--with a new, dependable one with the hope=
that it will give several years of good service, and while that should no=
t be a big ask I don't think I should have the feeling that I am merely ch=
anging cabins on the Titanic. All that said, most feedback seems to point =
to the AH Spares unit and that's probably where I'll go unless someone tur=
ns my head around. You mention that the threads are metric and I assume yo=
u mean the one for the shutoff valve. I don't have one of those--never had=
--and since it is pretty expensive and I can simply shut off flow via the =
tap on the right side of the engine I think I'll stay without one. As to t=
he hole on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a weephole designed =
to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that water is getting past the =
seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding what you are referring to ? B=
est--Michael On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31 AM Bob Spidell < bspidell@comca=
st.net > wrote: I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSp=
ares offering appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The im=
peller appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between t=
he impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likel=
y flow better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think everythi=
ng's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As previously report=
ed, the hole on the top of the pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes w=
ith a plug that doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ru=
ined a pump in my attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal =
an O/D drain plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't ha=
d the car out on a hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of ove=
rheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the eng=
ine bay, lack of a shroud, etc. I was so desperate I even tried a County p=
ump, bought from Tom Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough an=
d and I didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoop=
s to get a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who=
rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it's currently riding in the boot. I don'=
t have the invoice, but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call. Bob On =
12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote: When I did my 100, in 2=
015, I took the original pump to a very good machinist who fashioned a sea=
l out of delrin and he figured out the correct spring pressure using an or=
iginal NOS part and the pump works perfect to date. AH Spares professes th=
at they have the best pump. Many other aftermarket makers, including Count=
y, make junk. Using the original parts can work if you have someone who un=
derstands pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks an=
d the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from vibration. This mach=
inist worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank --------------------=
From: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt@gmail.com> To: "Austin Healey" <heal=
eys@autox.team.net> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] Wat=
er pump recommendations The engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like=
to replace the present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific br=
eakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic piece of equipme=
nt. Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement=
of what is generally offered to us? Best--Michael Oritt _________________=
______________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate=
.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/piperm=
ail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys@autox.team.net h=
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com ____________=
___________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/d=
onate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys@autox.team.=
net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com
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<html><body><div><div>Leaking! And leaking a lot!! Here's how I know, I had a
water pu=
mp fail on a trip to Oregon, I was going to see Steve Pike, let him know I=
was going to be late and why, when I arrived by tow truck, Steve had gott=
en one of these new pumps from BPNW and it was waiting for me. <br></=
div><div><br></div><div>Next day I told out the old, put this pump in, hoo=
ked everything up and fired up! Lots and lots of leaks that threaded hole.=
Went through all kinds of jumps, hoops, and bends and made it good enough=
to drive home 365 miles. Then I fixed it with a "new" Permatex product an=
d it's been great ever since. Drove it to LA, 840 some miles, drove it aro=
und Europe 2500 miles, and back home from LA. No problems. <br></div>=
<div><br></div><div>Bottom line, it appears the threads in the casing are =
straight threads and not pipe threads, And from what I've been told, strai=
ght threads are not water tight. So yea, that hole's purpose in this water=
pump is to leak. It can be worked around and knock wood, has been not lea=
king and working great for over 4K miles. I do check it quite often still =
though. <br></div><div>Steven Kingsbury<br></div><div>'55 BN1</div><d=
iv><br></div><div> <br></div><div><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"=
><div>On Dec 21, 2023, at 5:26 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.c=
om> wrote:<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div style=3D"color:#3333ff" class=3D"gmail_default">Does anyone know wha=
t the large (plugged) hole is for?<br></div></div><div><br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote"><div class=3D"gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Thu, Dec 21, 20=
23 at 2:51=E2=80=AFPM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.n=
et">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote style=3D"marg=
in:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1=
ex" class=3D"gmail_quote"><div><u></u><br></div><div><div>Yep. Many/most p=
umps do have a hole--usually, looking like a casting=0A flaw--over the =
shaft between the pulley and the seal. It will weep=0A coolant if=
the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded=0A hole--half-inch or=
so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it=0A in this pic:<br><=
/div><div> <br></div><div> <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"https://=
bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/">https://bpno=
rthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/</a><br></div><div=
> <br></div><div> Bastuck, I believe, is a German company (Josef is famili=
ar with=0A them). Also, IIRC the threads on the shaft are a bit short, =
I used a=0A thinner jamb nut to get good purchase. Those threads may be=
SAE, but=0A I don't recall.<br></div><div> <br></div><div> bs<br></div=
><div> <br></div><div> <br></div><div>On 12/21/2023 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt=
=0A wrote:<br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div s=
tyle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Thanks Bob--<br></di=
v><div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><d=
iv style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">It is somewhat=0A=
discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and=0A =
dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task. As I=0A=
mentioned I'd like to replace my present pump--I believe th=
e=0A "uprated" version which I installed in situ several years ba=
ck=0A and is working just fine--with a new, dependable one with t=
he=0A hope that it will give several years of good service, and=0A=
while that should not be a big ask I don't think I should h=
ave=0A the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titani=
c.<br></div><div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><b=
r></div><div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">All th=
at said,=0A most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit an=
d that's=0A probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head a=
round. =0A You mention that the threads are metric and I ass=
ume you mean=0A the one for the shutoff valve. I don't=
have one of=0A those--never had--and since it is pretty expensiv=
e and I can=0A simply shut off flow via the tap on the right=
side of the=0A engine I think I'll stay without one.<br></div><d=
iv style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div s=
tyle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">As to the hole=0A =
on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a=0A we=
ephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning=0A =
that water is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I=0A m=
isunderstanding what you are referring to ?<br></div><div style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D"col=
or:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Best--Michael<br></div><div sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D"col=
or:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D"color:r=
gb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div></div><div><br></div><div=
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div class=3D"gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Thu, Dec 2=
1, 2023 at=0A 11:31=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:=
bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>=0A wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid r=
gb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote"><div><div>I bought=
the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the=0A AHSpares offer=
ing appears to be an unbranded version, or=0A maybe a copy). Th=
e impeller appears to be somewhat more=0A effective design, and=
the gap between the impeller and the=0A pump body is, I think,=
smaller than OEM so would likely flow=0A better. The threads o=
n it won't fit the OEM valve--I think=0A everything's metric on=
it--and it comes with a barbed=0A nipple. As previously report=
ed, the hole on the top of the=0A pump--anyone know what that's=
for?--comes with a plug that=0A doesn't plug; I tried everythi=
ng to get it to seal, and=0A ruined a pump in my attempts. I fi=
nally found a way, and may=0A use it to seal an O/D drain plug =
if it continues to leak. It=0A works fine, but I haven't had th=
e car out on a hot day. I=0A don't think coolant flow is the ca=
use of overheating, esp.=0A at idle; it's mainly due to lack of=
airflow through the=0A engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br><=
/div><div> <br></div><div> I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, =
bought from=0A Tom Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt=
rough and=0A and I didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom h=
ad to jump=0A through hoops to get a refund but he came through=
. Tom knows=0A a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump fo=
r me, but=0A it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have th=
e invoice,=0A but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call.<br=
></div><div> <br></div><div> Bob<br></div><div> <br></div><div> <br></div>=
<div>On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:<br></div><block=
quote type=3D"cite"><div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original p=
ump=0A to a very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of=
=0A delrin and he figured out the correct spring pressure=0A=
using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to=0A=
date.<br></div><div> <br></div><div><div>AH Spares pr=
ofesses that they have the best pump.=0A Many other afterma=
rket makers, including County, make=0A junk. Using the orig=
inal parts can work if you have=0A someone who understands =
pumps.The proper spring pressure=0A is critical to prevent =
leaks and the seal being made out=0A of delrin resists wear=
from vibration. This machinist=0A worked for an agricultur=
al supply company. Hank<br></div><div> -------------------- <br></div><div=
> <br></div><div> From: "Michael Oritt" <a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gm=
ail.com"><michael.oritt@gmail.com></a> <br></div><div> To: "Austin H=
ealey" <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.ne=
t></a> <br></div><div> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br></div><div> =
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations<br></div></div><div><div sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">The=0A =
engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to=0A re=
place the present water pump PROVIDED there has been=0A =
a scientific breakthrough in the manufacturing of this=0A =
often problematic piece of equipment.<br></div><div style=3D"color:rg=
b(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"> <br></div><div style=3D"color:=
rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Is=0A anyone maki=
ng or reconditioning pumps that offer a=0A real impr=
ovement of what is generally offered to us?<br></div><div style=3D"color:r=
gb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"> <br></div><div style=3D"color=
:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Best--Michael=0A =
Oritt<br></div></div><div> <br></div><div><br></div></blockquote></d=
iv><div>_______________________________________________<br></div><div> Sup=
port <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://Team.Net";>Team.Net</a> =
<a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>ht=
tp://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div> Suggested annual donation=
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