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I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares offering
appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The impeller
appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between the
impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely
flow better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think
everything's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As
previously reported, the hole on the top of the pump--anyone know what
that's for?--comes with a plug that doesn't plug; I tried everything to
get it to seal, and ruined a pump in my attempts. I finally found a way,
and may use it to seal an O/D drain plug if it continues to leak. It
works fine, but I haven't had the car out on a hot day. I don't think
coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due
to lack of airflow through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.
I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom Monaco
but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't install it;
I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get a refund but he
came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump
for me, but it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice,
but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call.
Bob
On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
> When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a very good
> machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured out the
> correct spring pressure using an original NOS part and the pump works
> perfect to date.
> AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other
> aftermarket makers, including County, make junk. Using the original
> parts can work if you have someone who understands pumps.The proper
> spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made
> out of delrin resists wear from vibration. This machinist worked for
> an agricultural supply company. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
> To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations
> The engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the
> present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific breakthrough
> in the manufacturing of this often problematic piece of equipment.
> Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement
> of what is generally offered to us?
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
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I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares
offering appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The
impeller appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap
between the impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM
so would likely flow better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM
valve--I think everything's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed
nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that doesn't
plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in my
attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain
plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't had the
car out on a hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of
overheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow
through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br>
<br>
I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom
Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't
install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get
a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who
rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it's currently riding in the boot. I
don't have the invoice, but Tom would tell you if you gave him a
call.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:4f147da5-574f-10bb-fe0e-d5c5a5f6ed73@charter.net">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a
very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he
figured out the correct spring pressure using an original NOS
part and the pump works perfect to date.</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other
aftermarket makers, including County, make junk. Using the
original parts can work if you have someone who understands
pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks
and the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from
vibration. This machinist worked for an agricultural supply
company. Hank<br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "Michael Oritt" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";><michael.oritt@gmail.com></a> <br>
To: "Austin Healey" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a> <br>
Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br>
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations </div>
<div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">The engine in
my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the
present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific
breakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic
piece of equipment.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">Â </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">Is anyone
making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement
of what is generally offered to us?</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">Â </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<div>Â </div>
<br>
</blockquote>
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