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ps. The zerk just goes into the cavity between the two bearings, so
doesn't really serve a purpose that I can see, but I filled it with
grease anyway.
On 12/21/2023 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Thanks Bob--
>
> It is somewhat discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good
> and dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task. As I
> mentioned I'd like to replace my present pump--I believe the "uprated"
> version which I installed in situ several years back and is working
> just fine--with a new, dependable one with the hope that it will give
> several years of good service, and while that should not be a big ask
> I don't think I should have the feeling that I am merely changing
> cabins on the Titanic.
>
> All that said, most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit and
> that's probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head around. You
> mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean the one for
> the shutoff valve. I don't have one of those--never had--and since it
> is pretty expensive and I can simply shut off flow via the tap on the
> right side of the engine I think I'll stay without one.
>
> As to the hole on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a
> weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that
> water is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I
> misunderstanding what you are referring to ?
>
> Best--Michael
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31â?¯AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares
> offering appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The
> impeller appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap
> between the impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than
> OEM so would likely flow better. The threads on it won't fit the
> OEM valve--I think everything's metric on it--and it comes with a
> barbed nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
> pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that doesn't
> plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in
> my attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D
> drain plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't
> had the car out on a hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the
> cause of overheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due to lack of
> airflow through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.
>
> I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom
> Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I
> didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through
> hoops to get a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder
> in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it's currently
> riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice, but Tom would tell
> you if you gave him a call.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>> When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a very
>> good machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured
>> out the correct spring pressure using an original NOS part and
>> the pump works perfect to date.
>> AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other
>> aftermarket makers, including County, make junk. Using the
>> original parts can work if you have someone who understands
>> pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks and
>> the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from vibration.
>> This machinist worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
>> To: "Austin Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations
>> The engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the
>> present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific
>> breakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic piece
>> of equipment.
>> Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real
>> improvement of what is generally offered to us?
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
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>
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ps. The zerk just goes into the cavity between the two bearings, so
doesn't really serve a purpose that I can see, but I filled it with
grease anyway.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/21/2023 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B7NQR1VAw8-pzi__B9LXNSt5ZsfdmDFb_WwuDZDAaV0rQ@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Thanks Bob--</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">It is somewhat
discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and
dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task. As I
mentioned I'd like to replace my present pump--I believe the
"uprated" version which I installed in situ several years back
and is working just fine--with a new, dependable one with the
hope that it will give several years of good service, and
while that should not be a big ask I don't think I should have
the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">All that said,
most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit and that's
probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head around.Â
You mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean
the one for the shutoff valve. I don't have one of
those--never had--and since it is pretty expensive and I can
simply shut off flow via the tap on the right side of the
engine I think I'll stay without one.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">As to the hole
on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a
weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning
that water is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I
misunderstanding what you are referring to ?</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at
11:31â?¯AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"
class="moz-txt-link-freetext">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the
AHSpares offering appears to be an unbranded version, or
maybe a copy). The impeller appears to be somewhat more
effective design, and the gap between the impeller and the
pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely flow
better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think
everything's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed
nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that
doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and
ruined a pump in my attempts. I finally found a way, and may
use it to seal an O/D drain plug if it continues to leak. It
works fine, but I haven't had the car out on a hot day. I
don't think coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp.
at idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the
engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br>
<br>
I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from
Tom Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and
and I didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump
through hoops to get a refund but he came through. Tom knows
a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but
it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice,
but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div>On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump
to a very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of
delrin and he figured out the correct spring pressure
using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to
date.</div>
<div>Â </div>
<div>AH Spares professes that they have the best pump.
Many other aftermarket makers, including County, make
junk. Using the original parts can work if you have
someone who understands pumps.The proper spring pressure
is critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made out
of delrin resists wear from vibration. This machinist
worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank<br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "Michael Oritt" <a
href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"><michael.oritt@gmail.com></a>
<br>
To: "Austin Healey" <a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys@autox.team.net></a>
<br>
Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br>
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations </div>
<div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">The
engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to
replace the present water pump PROVIDED there has been
a scientific breakthrough in the manufacturing of this
often problematic piece of equipment.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Â </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Is
anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a
real improvement of what is generally offered to us?</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Â </div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<div>Â </div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
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