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Not concours, but when I did my BN2's doors I lined them with a thin
insulator, basically thin 'bubble wrap' with foil on either side. IIRC,
I did this because I didn't want just vinyl against metal, but was
pleasantly surprised when it caused the doors to make a satisfying
'thunk' on closing; the best-sounding doors I've ever heard (at least on
a Healey). I tried to make a video with sound, but the recording didn't
do them justice.
On 10/1/2021 6:39 AM, S and T Miller via Healeys wrote:
> I've done some more digging on the "Ole interwebs" after asking this
> question of the group. I did learn that not all doors have the
> vertical/ central wide metal brace running from the bottom of the door
> to the wood horizontal brace (screw attachment point for the upper
> panel). I'd speculate that it was added on later in the run as a
> needed exterior door skin support. I'm sure someone on here knows when
> and why. I did find some pictures showing the vinyl glued over that
> brace and it is visible through the vinyl covering.
>
> As far as the wood horizontal brace it appears most glue it creating a
> 90 degree lip below the upper stiff backed panel. It just didn't seem
> correct to me, but after viewing numerous completed cars, it doesn't
> look bad.
>
> I'm not doing a concours car, but some areas I just get all wrapped up
> in making it as factory correct as possible.
>
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
> test drive."
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* S and T Miller
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 29, 2021 9:02 PM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* 100 door vinyl original glue technique
> How did the factory go about gluing the bottom inner vinyl material to
> the inner door? So if you glue it tight there is a brace running up
> the middle that will show through, and also there would be a 90 degree
> ledge where it meets the horizontal wood middle support (below the
> upper vinyl covered panel). I'm fairly certain there was no backing
> material on this piece of vinyl from the factory. My thought is to
> glue to the metal brace and glue a distance away to create a nice
> transition. And the same method from the horizontal mid wood support
> which would leave some unglued void areas between the vinyl and the
> inner door.
>
> I do realize that adding some backing takes care of the issues, but
> am interested in how it was done originally. I don't recall mine
> having any backing, and my original vinyl is too stiff and pulled away
> to tell how it was done. Once I flattened out my originals, they did
> make fantastic templates to cut the new vinyl from.
> TIA, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
> test drive."
>
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Not concours, but when I did my BN2's doors I lined them with a thin
insulator, basically thin 'bubble wrap' with foil on either side.
IIRC, I did this because I didn't want just vinyl against metal, but
was pleasantly surprised when it caused the doors to make a
satisfying 'thunk' on closing; the best-sounding doors I've ever
heard (at least on a Healey). I tried to make a video with sound,
but the recording didn't do them justice.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/1/2021 6:39 AM, S and T Miller
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:BL0PR04MB4881F1066A6B2A843B3189DDD4AB9@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<div style="font-family: "segoe ui westeuropean",
"segoe ui", helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size:
12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I've done some more digging on the "Ole interwebs" after asking
this question of the group. I did learn that not all doors have
the vertical/ central wide metal brace running from the bottom
of the door to the wood horizontal brace (screw attachment point
for the upper panel). I'd speculate that it was added on later
in the run as a needed exterior door skin support. I'm sure
someone on here knows when and why. I did find some pictures
showing the vinyl glued over that brace and it is visible
through the vinyl covering. </div>
<div style="font-family: "segoe ui westeuropean",
"segoe ui", helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size:
12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: "segoe ui westeuropean",
"segoe ui", helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size:
12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
As far as the wood horizontal brace it appears most glue it
creating a 90 degree lip below the upper stiff backed panel. It
just didn't seem correct to me, but after viewing numerous
completed cars, it doesn't look bad. </div>
<div style="font-family: "segoe ui westeuropean",
"segoe ui", helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size:
12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: "segoe ui westeuropean",
"segoe ui", helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size:
12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I'm not doing a concours car, but some areas I just get all
wrapped up in making it as factory correct as possible. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is
a test drive."<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<hr style="display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex="-1">
<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> S and
T Miller<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 29, 2021 9:02 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> 100 door vinyl original glue technique </font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="font-family:"segoe ui
westeuropean","segoe
ui",helvetica,arial,sans-serif; font-size:12pt;
color:rgb(0,0,0)">
How did the factory go about gluing the bottom inner vinyl
material to the inner door? So if you glue it tight there is a
brace running up the middle that will show through, and also
there would be a 90 degree ledge where it meets the horizontal
wood middle support (below the upper vinyl covered panel). I'm
fairly certain there was no backing material on this piece of
vinyl from the factory. My thought is to glue to the metal
brace and glue a distance away to create a nice transition.
And the same method from the horizontal mid wood support which
would leave some unglued void areas between the vinyl and the
inner door. </div>
<div style="font-family:"segoe ui
westeuropean","segoe
ui",helvetica,arial,sans-serif; font-size:12pt;
color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family:"segoe ui
westeuropean","segoe
ui",helvetica,arial,sans-serif; font-size:12pt;
color:rgb(0,0,0)">
I do realize that adding some backing takes care of the
issues, but am interested in how it was done originally. I
don't recall mine having any backing, and my original vinyl is
too stiff and pulled away to tell how it was done. Once I
flattened out my originals, they did make fantastic templates
to cut the new vinyl from. </div>
<div style="font-family:"segoe ui
westeuropean","segoe
ui",helvetica,arial,sans-serif; font-size:12pt;
color:rgb(0,0,0)">
TIA, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car
is a test drive."<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
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