--===============3758499099267606382==
--00000000000074aaa805aecc4abf
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Quite true, but a thin cutting blade on a Dremel makes short work of them
=F0=9F=98=81=F0=9F=98=81
M
On Mon., Sep. 7, 2020, 11:03 p.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys, <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Careful of the solid =E2=80=9Colive=E2=80=9D. Sounds like a tubing ferrul=
e to me. If you
> put enough force on it to set it you might not be able to remove it.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael
> Oritt via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM
> *To:* John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
>
>
> - I got everything together this morning.
> -
> - I was under the mistaken impression that the three flathead screws
> shown in the earlier photo should stay in place and that three additio=
nal
> screws should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and
> somehow thread into the holes in the copper ring. (Those holes and th=
e
> three smaller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over
> locator pins which were present on some units, though not mine.). In =
any
> case after a lot of good and patient advice from folks over on this li=
st
> and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error of my ways, removed=
the
> three screws and passed them through the countersunk holes on the plat=
e and
> into the trafficator.
> -
> - Despite varying opinions as to whether or not the olive should be
> split to allow for installation I was able to get the solid one sent t=
o me
> by David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drov=
e it
> home. I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.
> -
> - This is one of those jobs that we will probably do only once if at
> all during our ownership but in case there is a "next time" for me I a=
m now
> ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.
> -
> - Thanks all for your patience--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Curt
>
> So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of BA a=
s
> well as 5BA as you correctly said.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA. See attached=
.
>
> Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.
>
> Just use the correct three countersunk holes in the stator tube, get one
> started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.
>
> -Curt
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your
> issue I have 2 suggestions.
> Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as common
> glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you a=
re
> assembling the assembly?
> Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer,
> thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins=
"
> would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it woul=
d
> stay in place.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
> On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
> >
> > I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt for
> > refurbishing and got it back in great condition. However I am
> > having difficulty in reinstalling it:
> >
> > 1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am ready to
> > attach the trafficator assembly which is done via three #4BA flat
> > head machine screws that go through the countersunk holes in the
> > stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or brass piece
> > which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece's thinness
> > there is really only one thread of engagement and whenever I
> > attempt to push the head/tube home into its final position I
> > invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. Am I doing
> > something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
> >
> > 2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end of the
> > stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I start exerting
> > force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be heated,
> > etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would up having to
> > cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have slightly
> > buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perhaps I need
> > to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
> >
> > Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to cool off and
> > I would like to get the car back on the road.
> >
> >
> > Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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>
--00000000000074aaa805aecc4abf
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"auto">Quite true, but a thin cutting blade on a Dremel makes sh=
ort work of them =F0=9F=98=81=F0=9F=98=81<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div d=
ir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cl=
ass=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon., Sep. 7, 2020, 11:03 p.m. WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via=
Healeys, <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" r=
el=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquot=
e class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc sol=
id;padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>Careful of the solid =E2=80=9Colive=E2=80=9D. Sounds like a tubing fer=
rule to me. If you put enough force on it to set it you might not be able t=
o remove it.</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_5609092585385495056m_7917773947521781079divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"=
ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#=
000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.te=
am.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@aut=
ox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a href=3D"m=
ailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blan=
k">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, September 7, 2020 5:58 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> John Harper <<a href=3D"mailto:ah100register@gmail.com" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ah100register@gmail.com</a>>=
;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer nore=
ferrer" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href=3D"mailto:=
healeys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">hea=
leys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:#3333ff">
<ul>
<li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Cal=
ibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">I got everything together this morni=
ng.=C2=A0=C2=A0</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-fami=
ly:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Aria=
l,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">I was under the mistaken=
impression that the three flathead screws shown in the earlier photo shoul=
d stay in place and that three additional screws
should pass through the plate on the end of the stator tube and somehow th=
read into the holes in the copper ring.=C2=A0 (Those holes and the three sm=
aller holes on the plate were apparently designed to slip over locator pins=
which were present on some units, though
not mine.).=C2=A0 In any case after a lot of good and patient advice from =
folks over on this list and the AH Experience site I finally saw the error =
of my ways, removed the three screws and passed them through the countersun=
k holes on the plate and into the trafficator.=C2=A0=C2=A0</span></li><li><=
br style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Ge=
neva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">
</li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahom=
a,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Despite varying opinions as to =
whether or not the olive should be split to allow for installation I was ab=
le to get the solid one sent to me by
David Nock started onto the stator tube and by using the nut I drove it ho=
me.=C2=A0 I'll finish lubing and wiring tomorrow hopefully.=C2=A0</span=
></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Taho=
ma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Aria=
l,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">This is one of those job=
s that we will probably do only once if at all during our ownership but in =
case there is a "next time" for me I am now
ready and what took me hours will probably take minutes.</span></li><li><s=
pan style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,G=
eneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><br>
</span></li><li><span style=3D"color:rgb(34,34,34);font-family:Verdana,Aria=
l,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Thanks all for your pati=
ence--Michael Oritt</span></li></ul>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 9:45 AM John Harper via Healeys <=
;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Curt
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So that everybody is aware Lucas used as a general view odd sizes of B=
A as well as 5BA as you correctly said.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, 7 Sep 2020 at 14:39, Curtis Arndt via Healeys <=
<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" tar=
get=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gentlemen,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>First, I fat fingered my response, the screws are no. 5 BA.=C2=A0 See =
attached.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Second, there should be absolutely no need for alignment pins.=C2=A0=
=C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Just use the correct three countersunk=C2=A0holes in the stator tube, =
get one started, center the switch on the plate, and the rest will follow.<=
/div>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>-Curt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 5:58 AM <<a href=3D"mailto:warth=
odson@aol.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">warthodson@a=
ol.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:12pt "Comic Sans MS",sans-serif">I=
have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your is=
sue I have 2 suggestions.=C2=A0
<div>Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as com=
mon glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you=
are assembling the assembly?</div>
<div>Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longe=
r, thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment=
? The "pins" would be removed after you get one #4BA screw starte=
d enough that it would stay in place.</div>
<div>Gary Hodson=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br>
<br>
<br>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">
<div id=3D"m_5609092585385495056m_7917773947521781079x_gmail-m_520262353942=
8257464gmail-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034=
">
<div>
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div id=3D"m_5609092585385495056m_7917773947521781079x_gmail-m_520262353942=
8257464gmail-m_4398404120196588790gmail-m_-4635914555853656348yiv3875564034=
yqtfd38455">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arn=
dt for<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0refurbishing and got it back in great condition. Ho=
wever I am<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0having difficulty in reinstalling it:<br clear=3D"n=
one">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A01. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am=
ready to<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attach the trafficator assembly which is done via t=
hree #4BA flat<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0head machine screws that go through the countersunk=
holes in the<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper o=
r brass piece<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0which resembles a spring washer. Because of the pie=
ce's thinness<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0there is really only one thread of engagement and w=
henever I<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attempt to push the head/tube home into its final p=
osition I<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head=
. Am I doing<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0something wrong here or am I simply being ham-hande=
d?<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A02. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the e=
nd of the<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I=
start exerting<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to=
be heated,<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i wou=
ld up having to<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I ha=
ve slightly<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if p=
erhaps I need<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?<br clear=3D"=
none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning =
to cool off and<br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I would like to get the car back on the road.<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
><br clear=3D"none">
> _______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
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<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote>
</div>
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-- <br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Best wishes
<div><br>
</div>
<div>John Harper</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>AHC UK 100 Register Secretary</div>
</div>
</div>
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