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Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues

To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>, "cnaarndt@gmail.com" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator reinstallation issues
From: warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 12:58:48 +0000 (UTC)
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAPTa0B4=Dnrnq65qL7SzHsrLuCCtrrYouzGKwTRLD_7ViJ2x=g@mail.gmail.com> <2c3a8917-ccdb-db0e-5770-10dc3565bdc7@earthlink.net> <CAPTa0B7BmYQnnt0ES9t2tSx-AraYx=061Vp4LKXo8g54DyKXyQ@mail.gmail.com> <CAJKrNeQfpubTnk7mDe=nm5YYJyNX7hSa-AAuv4St1HF55cPVGg@mail.gmail.com> <CAB3i7L+fN6-EzdrBMMkOEpP9hZ5CogowFc6fh1NJhtnTtwXfxw@mail.gmail.com> x64) AppleWebKit/537.36 (KHTML, like Gecko) Chrome/85.0.4183.83 Safari/537.36
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I have re-read your description of the problem & if I understand your issue=
 I have 2 suggestions.=C2=A0Would it be possible to use some temporary, low=
 tack glue (such as common glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass p=
iece in place while you are assembling the assembly?Would it also help to o=
nly use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw & 2 longer, thinner, non-threaded, tempor=
ary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pins" would be removed after you ge=
t one #4BA screw started enough that it would stay in place.Gary Hodson=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0







On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:
>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arndt =
for
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0refurbishing and got it back in great condition. Howev=
er I am
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0having difficulty in reinstalling it:
>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A01. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am re=
ady to
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attach the trafficator assembly which is done via thre=
e #4BA flat
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0head machine screws that go through the countersunk ho=
les in the
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper or b=
rass piece
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0which resembles a spring washer. Because of the piece'=
s thinness
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0there is really only one thread of engagement and when=
ever I
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0attempt to push the head/tube home into its final posi=
tion I
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head. A=
m I doing
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0something wrong here or am I simply being ham-handed?
>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A02. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the end =
of the
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I st=
art exerting
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to be=
 heated,
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i would =
up having to
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I have =
slightly
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if perh=
aps I need
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?
>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning to =
cool off and
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I would like to get the car back on the road.
>
>
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;">I have re-=
read your description of the problem &amp; if I understand your issue I hav=
e 2 suggestions.&nbsp;
<div>Would it be possible to use some temporary, low tack glue (such as com=
mon glue stick) to adhere the thin copper or brass piece in place while you=
 are assembling the assembly?</div>

<div>Would it also help to only use 1 #4BA counter sunk screw &amp; 2 longe=
r, thinner, non-threaded, temporary "pins" to assist in alignment? The "pin=
s" would be removed after you get one #4BA screw started enough that it wou=
ld stay in place.</div>

<div>Gary Hodson&nbsp; &nbsp;<br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">
<div id=3D"yiv3875564034">
<div>
<div class=3D"yiv3875564034gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"yiv3875564034g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-l=
eft:1ex;">
<div class=3D"yiv3875564034yqt0399246192" id=3D"yiv3875564034yqtfd38455">
<div class=3D"yiv3875564034gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"yiv3875564034g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div class=3D"yiv3875564034gmail_quote"><blockquote class=3D"yiv3875564034g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;"><br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
On 9/6/20 3:35 PM, Michael Oritt via Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;I sent my trafficator/horn assembly off to Curt Arn=
dt for<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;refurbishing and got it back in great condition. Ho=
wever I am<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;having difficulty in reinstalling it:<br clear=3D"n=
one">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;1. I have fed the wires down the stator tube and am=
 ready to<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;attach the trafficator assembly which is done via t=
hree #4BA flat<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;head machine screws that go through the countersunk=
 holes in the<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;stator tube end plate and pick up the thin copper o=
r brass piece<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;which resembles a spring washer. Because of the pie=
ce's thinness<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;there is really only one thread of engagement and w=
henever I<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;attempt to push the head/tube home into its final p=
osition I<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;invariably dislodge one of the screws from the head=
. Am I doing<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;something wrong here or am I simply being ham-hande=
d?<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;2. Is there a trick to getting the olive over the e=
nd of the<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;stator tube as I cannot get it started and before I=
 start exerting<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;force I thought I would enquire whether it needs to=
 be heated,<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;etc. Getting the old one off was not easy and i wou=
ld up having to<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;cut it with a dremel tool. It is possible that I ha=
ve slightly<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;buggered the end of the stator tube and wonder if p=
erhaps I need<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;to dress the end, chamfering it a bit?<br clear=3D"=
none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Any help will be appreciated--weather is beginning =
to cool off and<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;I would like to get the car back on the road.<br cl=
ear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Best--Michael Oritt, 100 Le Mans<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
&gt; _______________________________________________<br clear=3D"none">
&gt; Support Team.Net <a rel=3D"nofollow" shape=3D"rect" target=3D"_blank" =
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</blockquote></div>

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